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Letters from China and other places

by Stephen Thompson, (唐肆啼) a China expat, writer, photographer and retired web developer.

Recent Publications


You are Welcome to China Inspired by the Chinglish signs at China's International border crossings  
I want to be a Chinese I want to be Chinese; my first article published in Hong Kong's Open Magazine, banned on the mainland
Who Deleted My Website? Who deleted my website? published by Trends magazine in August 2011, banned on the mainland
Shanghai-Expo The Shanghai Expo was used by the Communist Party to mobilise its forces in another repressive crackdown.Published by Trends Magazine in 2010, banned on the mainland

more articles (Try googling 唐肆啼 for the very latest stuff)

Recent posts

Chinese Wannabe  My satirical article in Hong Kong Open magazine "I want to be Chinese" is now on sale all over town. It is also on the Open Magazine site and can be read here
It is a call for China to relax its immigration policy, by allowing foreigners to attain Chinese citizenship in the way that immigrants do in most countries. China now has a large population of expatriates, many of them whom have married into Chinese families or set up businesses. These people have no political rights at all, and in some ways face an even worse human rights predicament than citizens of the PRC
Censorship on Youku  Yesterday I tried to upload another video on the theme of attaining Chinese nationality to Youku.com. But for some reason, not only was it immediately censored, but it also triggered the censorship of both the previously uncensored videos on the same theme on the site, which I had uploaded last week. I'm not sure exactly why; one possibility is that I was wearing a T-shirt with the letters six and four in one of the frames of the video. Apart from that there was nothing very anti-Communist party. This is not my first experience of having a video censored in China, but it is the first time that I have had a video censored which I had taken a lot of time and trouble to make. As usual there was no explanation for the censorship.It's a learning experience which makes me understand and sympathise with mainland China users of such websites. It's very disheartening to go to the trouble of uploading video, only to find it has been deleted, to the extent that it puts me off wanting to use their website in future. Websites in the West go to great trouble to make it easy for users, and avoid discouraging them. Websites such as this would never have a chance to compete if they were exposed to competition from uncensored sites. It's so strange that a company like this can raise hundreds of millions of US dollars on the NASDAQ in New York
Chinese Art  It must be fun to be a Chinese artist
Propaganda on the Roof  A woman hangs out her washing beside a large rooftop propaganda poster celebrating the foundation of the People's Liberation Army. So propaganda does have a use after all; to keep the washing dry!
The Flag of the Republic is Stained with the Blood of the the People  Someone once said that the flag of the Republic is stained with the blood of the the People, but this one looks like a foreign victim. I saw this in an art exhibition in Chai Wan, Hong Kong a few days ago. Modern art has been successful spreading ideas which are subversive and new; Ai Weiwei is just the best-known example of this trend.
Bauhinia Flower  This flower is on the Hong Kong flag and it is one of the symbols of Hong Kong
The Deaf Dumb and Blind Kid   I added myself to the picture with eyes that cannot see and mouth that cannot speak. That is what I used to be like! This picture is composed of 10,000 banknotes, composing another ironic artistic statement about the late Chairman Mao.
Please Censor Yourself  
Pillar of Shame  Monument to the dead of the Tiananmen massacre of June 4th, 1989, outside the students union at Hong Kong University. I heard that this would be moved to another site recently, to make way for the building of the west island Mass Transit railway, but as of last month it was still unmoved. It remains a powerful monument to the unjustly dead, their families, and their dreams of a fairer world
Nurse Thompson  As a young woman,Isobel Thompson worked as Volunteer nurse along side Norman Bethune in north west China during the closing stages of the civil war in China between 1947 and 1949.She is now retired in New Zealand and her memoirs have been translated into Chinese. Unfortunately although she shares a surname with me she's not a close relative. Otherwise perhaps I could claim to be from a family of old friends of China, and belong to that small category of foreigners who are genuinely welcome
Student Anger at Hong Kong University  
Tibetan Money  
Yen and Yuan  With out the Japanese invasion, the CPC would not have come to power, said Mao Zedong on several occasions
The Road to 1911  An exhibition of photos relating to the end of the Empire 100 years ago is being shown at Hong Kong University
Election Poster  Demanding the reversal of the verdict on June 4 1989 and the release of all political prisoners
Counterfeit Paradise  A large market specialising in counterfeit clothes, bags and watches can be found in the basement of Science and Technology Metro station. There was a lot of publicity about the closure of the previous market in another street, which supported the notion that the Shanghai government was getting serious about cracking down on counterfeiting. But it's alive and thriving underground; you can see it as soon as you pass through the ticket barriers.
Tartan Samarai  Seen in the fashionable Harajuku area
HKU 110th Anniversary Marred by Political Repression  Heavy handed policing during the visit of Li Keqiang on August 18th led to claims that freedom of speech at Hong Kong University was dead. Students were prevented from going anywhere near Li, and reporters were prevented from filming this. Even so, a government spokesman claimed that it was completely rubbish that Hong Kong people's rights had been infringed
Shepherds Pie  Good food
Funniest Comment on Riots in Britain  This from the latest Private Eye is the finest story I have seen about the rights in Britain so far!
The Fat Years  An English translation of the popular banned book Shengshi (盛世) by  Chen Guanzhong (陈冠中) has now been published with support from English Pen and  financial help from Bloomberg. Reviewing it in the Guardian, Jonathan Fenby calls it "a dystopian portrait of the world's most deceitful superpower" 
Review here: http://www.guardian.co.uk/books/2011/jul/24/fat-years-chan-koonchung/print
Death by China  The hysterical tone and US-centric perspective put me off what could other wise be an interesting book 
Worst Hotel in Shanghai  Appallingly bad service used to be universal in China, but I've almost forgotten what it was like until I stayed at this hotel.Hoping to get an early flight, I stayed in this hotel 10 minutes drive from Pudong airport. It had a curtain-less window painted blue which gave the impression of dawn, so that I woke at 4:40 AM. 
The toilet was smelly, the hot water took ages to come on, there was no information in the room about the Wi-Fi password all the reception telephone number and the shuttle bus to the airport left at 7 AM, the same time as breakfast was served. 
I decided to complain but the manager was absent so I left this note in the visitors book.
In future I will remember to stay in one of the business chain hotels which are reliable and avoid imitations like this one
The window was painted blue which made me think that dawn had arrived in possibly the worst hotel near Pudong International airport.
Read more: http://www.stephen-t.com/Worst-Hotel-in-Shanghai.html
Unable to sleep in the airy light, it reminded me of room 101, the room where there is no darkness, in Orwell's 1984
Shanghai Library  I was pleasantly surprised by Shanghai library. The big open space in the middle reminded me of Hong Kong Central library. There were plenty of foreign newspapers to read, although they seem to be rather out of date. They even had the China quarterly!
Propaganda Poster  Enthusiastically celebrate 90th anniversary of the Chinese Communist Party.
Long live the great, glorious and correct Communist Party of China!
Shanghai Patriotic Education Promotion Side  Seen at the entrance of Shanghai library
Polite Japan  One of the nice things about visiting Japan is that it is the only country in the world I know of where nobody makes cellphone calls while using public transport.
Pudong from the Sky  I took this photograph shortly after taking off from Pudong International airport late in the afternoon
The British Indian Cafe  At this small cosy Indian cafe I had a ball of spinach curry and a piece of cheese Nan for 850 Yen. Cheap food and cheerful service.
Coffee and Propaganda  A short propaganda video was repeated every few minutes on this copy machine in Pudong airport to celebrate the 90th anniversary of the Communist Party. In the picture, Mao and early party members
Japanese Tea Flavoured Kit Kat Biscuits  To me, few things are more English than a cup of tea accompanied by a chocolate Kit Kat biscuit after a game of football on a rainy day, but in fact this is fusion food par excellence. Tea in Britain is usually drunk with milk and sometimes sugar in mugs more often than cups.  The British prefer black tea to the green tea grown in Fujian province of China from where the word tea originates and where the best Chinese tea is grown.

Kit Kat  is made by Swiss company Nestle which pays almost no UK tax.
Today I found a Japanese-style Kit-Kat for sale in Tokyo; it is green tea flavoured and green in colour.


The Japanese are known for studying and perfecting many Chinese customs, including the tea ceremony. I wonder whether they need any lessons in British tea drinking culture?
Communist Party Propaganda  Communist Party propaganda celebrating the 90th anniversary of the CPC foundation is still ubiquitous in Shanghai
Shanghai Evening News Article About Foreigners  Once again I have appeared as an example of a foreigner in the 新民晚报. However the journalist got his facts wrong and did not check with me
The Shanghai Daily is the Throat and Tongue of the Communist Party  When I first arrived back in Shanghai in 2006, I could not see any English-language newspapers for sale except for this one, because they were banned after 1989
Bio Wine Organic Shop  
Food Safety   
According to a sign in a popular jiaozi ( dumpling) chainstore, adding non-edible substances to food will be punished with the following measures:
restaurant licence will be revoked
income will be confiscated
food materials will be confiscated
food will be confiscated
equipment will be confiscated
punishment will be meted out according to the law
Political Games  Foreigners must show passports during University games when having a massage
Garlic, Chili and Vinegar  these are the condiments which accompany the jiaozi dumplings at the Dumpling restaurant
Thumbs Up for McDonalds  Is it just me or are there too many McDonald's, Kentucky fried chicken, Starbucks and Pizza Hut restaurants in China?
Meaty Meal  This meal had a bit too much meat for me. heart disease and cancer are increasing in China; food for thought
Underground Communist Propaganda  This display was prominent at the People's Square Underground railway station
Illuminated Propaganda  Another propaganda display at Pudong airport
Friendly Chinese Policeman  This friendly Chinese policeman shows the way towards immigration controls at Pudong airport
Coffee and Propaganda  Would you like propaganda or sugar with your coffee?
A Wee Tot  Fancy a wee dram to get you on your way? Chivas seems to be pushing hard to sell Britain's number one export, Whisky
China Eastern Mid Air Food  Airplane meal served on China Eastern Shanghai Hong Kong flight
70 Percent of Doctors in China Do Not Want Their Children to Join the Profession  70% of doctors in China are so unhappy with the profession that they don't want their children to join it.What the newspaper did not and could not say is that nearly 70% of Chinese people do not want to be Chinese; that would cross the border line between constructive and systemic criticism
Big Nose  Chinese people say foreigners have big noses and call us  大鼻子
Stephen Butler  A lot of rich Chinese employed me as their "butler" (英式管家)
White Tiger  This book which I bought in India would be banned if it was written about China. It exposes the arrogance of the rich and their contemptuous abuse of their servants, one of whom eventually revolts. It is told in the form of a conversation with Wen Jiabao (温家宝).
Otherwise there is not much about China, except for one very corrupt and rich man who blames India's problems on democracy and says things would better if India was a dictatorship!
Gagged  Foreigners and self-censorship.

It is surprising how often I find foreigners who are more scared of the Chinese authorities than many Chinese are. People who fought fascism and campaigned against apartheid without hesitating to think of their personal safety seem to think that I should keep my mouth shut if I want to carry on working in China, without considering the price of surrendering liberty
 But it should not be, because not long ago I was also much more cautious about speaking my mind. I never expressed my personal views, even when I heard Chinese criticise their government, I tried to think of a polite answer. But in 2009 an article I had written on sport sponsorship was censored by the Shanghai propaganda authorities, and I felt I had reached the limit of my tolerance. After years of learning Chinese, working for the Society for Anglo Chinese Understanding and excepting everything China through at me, I had had enough. I had spent two weeks writing the article without payment, simply for the publicity I thought it would bring my company's breast cancer charity sponsorship event. The only controversial argument in the article was that China's sport sponsorship market is constrained by state control of the media.
This last straw came after I had been wrongly advised by local lawyers not to sign an employment contract with my company, which resulted in my losing my job, my visa and my right to stay in China. I was left without any legal recourse. The stress caused me to lose my memory, and I suspected a mini-stroke,  but the company had not been required to provide any medical cover for me. I had spent months applying for the work visa, even submitting myself to an HIV test in the knowledge that if I tested positive I would be booted out of China permanently. And all this happened just months after the Chinese government suddenly and arbitrarily suspended access to China for foreign residents of Hong Kong like myself by withdrawing multiple entry visa access.
In the summer of 2009 we also lived through the farcical attempt of the government to install censorship software on all new PCs manufactured in China. This they abandoned after it was discovered that the code was stolen. Then at the end of the year they resumed executions of foreigners and sentenced Liu Xiaobo to 11 years for his Charter 08 call for political reform. In the aftermath, they kidnapped and bullied his supporters into silence, and sent me a trojan horse virus after they found my email on a PC  they had confiscated. I was impressed by the bravery of many Chinese who continued to speak out in the face of this repression, and when I learned that it is rare to be visa-blacklisted, I decided to speak my mind in future too. After all, I have so much less to lose than them and it would be no great loss if I could no longer visit China. There are so much better places to visit. I would miss only my friends
Nightclub  nightclub
Rain  rain
House for Rich Man   Rich man's house
Train of Thought  Last year I took a train ride on the Wuhan-Guangzhou rail line and enjoyed it. 
I wrote this about it: China has many fast comfortable new train services, like this three-hour, 1,200 km service from Wuhan to Guangzhou. At first, the Chinese government opposed railways and the first one was bought by the Chinese government and destroyed. They said railways were western things unsuitable for China. Today, the Chinese government opposes democracy, freedom of speech and human rights. They say these are western things unsuitable for China... 
About 400 people watched the video and I got some angry criticism from those who said we are pushing China into democracy too fast.
I am glad that I was not on that train from Wenzhou, the one where 40 people died, 200 were injured, and 200 just disappeared into thin air, or were buried inside the train...

..
A Bottle of Spirits Called Viagra.  
A bottle of spirits called Viagra. I found this for sale in my local convenience store. 
Could it be that this is a copyright infringement? It may console Pfizer to know that drinkers of this kind of cheap alcohol do not read much English.
Wěigē, ( 伟哥 ) meaning big brother is the Chinese name they more easily recognise.
You can buy viagra without a prescription in chemists in Shanghai and Shenzhen. But last year before I went back to London, Ia Shanghai friend asked me to bring some Viagra back for him, saying that the local stuff was fake. As chance would have it, I bumped into a black market viagra dealer on my trip to London, but also heard stories that fake Chinese drugs were turning up in public hospitals. So had I bought the black market UK viagra and taken it back in Shanghai, chances are it would have been a re-import.
Franken Montage  This franken-montage of my head and Ai Weiwei's body was created by a friend who prefers to remain anon. While Ai was in prison, he was kept in a tiny cell with lights on 24 hours a day and two guards glaring at him. This reminded me of room 101 in 1984, by George Orwell. See here http://www.stephen-t.com/The-place-where-there-is-no-darkness.html
Who Blocked My Web Site?  The latest issue of Trends magazine is out in Hong Kong, with my article in Chinese. See http://www.stephen-t.com/Your-site-is-most-likely-NOT-accessible-from-within-mainland-China..html
My Chinese is not that fluent, but I think I have some novelty value as a foreign devil writer of Chinese. I am not scared to speak truth to power any more. If you read Chinese, I would be interested in your opinion of my writing!
3 Pounds Meal  Not a bad meal for just 3 pounds
In austere times, Britons must tighten their belts. The government is cutting expenditure in the middle of a recession, ensuring things will get much worse before they get better
Lamma  Lamma Island is a peaceful, healthy place to live but not from the centre of Hong Kong. It has beaches to swim and hills to climb, and its many paths are almost untouched by motorized transport. The hills provide good views of neighbouring islands and the busy shipping channels around Hong Kong. Woods and bushes cover much of the island and provide shelter to the many reptiles, amphibians and birds who live here.
But where is perfect and the locals are busy spoiling the place by building rubbish dumps and toilets at key points. They plan to finish off the beach with an unnecessary concrete road between the ferry and the pier.Even so, there are still lots of places on the island they have not got to yet.
Lamma Tree  This is one of my favorite trees on Lamma Island, the Banyan. The Chinese name is 榕树 róngshù,(Yungshue in Cantonese) and our local village Yongshuwan (Banyan Bay) is named after the tree
YWCA Mumbai  This is where I spent the night of July 13th, 2011. It is reasonably priced and quite clean, and is conveniently located near Marine Drive.
I left India the following day, and tried to gain re-entry on August 9th, but was refused, because according to my double entry visa "There should be a gap between visits of 2 months except for neighbourhood tourism"

Your Site is Most Likely NOT Accessible from Within Mainland China

  After checking with greatfirewallofchina.org, I found that my new Travel Photography Blog has already been blocked by the GFW (Great Fire Wall). At first this was puzzling, since the content is similar to the other sites, such as photocol.org and shanghaidiary.org which are all accessible, and all have a kind of basic self censorship built in; blog posts with prettier pictures are shown first to readers with simplified Chinese browser settings. But I had forgotten about the sensitivity of Tibet. The photo of Tibet which I had ranked highly as a photo, and which had Han porters carrying tourists up the mountain on sedan chairs, in a place where Tibetans are not allowed to work, a fact I commented on in the post, was definitely sensitive. My initial reaction was that perhaps the explanation is that the url may be sensitive because it has the word blog in it. The url may indeed have attracted attention, not only for the blog word but also for the co.uk, because Britain is a country about which China has special historical grievances. These may have attracted attention, but when I looked at the photo, I realised immediately that the main reason for the block was the photo of Han Chinese workers struggling up a hill with with tourists on their backs, and the accusation of racial discrimination towards Tibetans in the text. . Here is the offensive photo
Here is the article on the subject in Trends Magazine
Black Cat and White Cat  Deng Xiaoping famously declared the greatest ideological u-turn of history by saying that it does not matter if a cat is black or white as long as it can catch mice.As the state got out of peoples lives, the economy started to grow, and the Communist Party was praised for doing nothing. This so-called economic miracle was an accident waiting for the energy of the Chinese people to be unleashed. In the 1980s, the so-called four dragons, Hong Kong, Korea, Singapore and Taiwan showed how so-called Confucian work ethic could lead to rapid growth. Of course the biggest benificiaries of the boom were the Communists Party themselves, who control the biggest companies and their profits. The politbureau now resembles a board meeting of a large conglomerate rather than a revolutionary party. Powerful ruling families have interests in industries; the Li family dominates the power sector, Wen Jiabao is strong in the gem sector, Zhu Rongji is big in finance. And in recent years, they have been strengthening their monopolies
This photo was taken on 2011-08-01 at London,England
The Place Where There is No Darkness  Orwell worked here and foresaw the future of China
Ai Weiwei was kept in a tiny cell with the light on 24 hours per day, according to the Washington Post. Why do Chinese dictators behave like caricatures from George Orwell's novel 1984? For those who don't remember, in Orwell's dystopia, undercover police agent-provocateur O'brien tells would-be dissident Winston Smith that they will meet again, 'in the place where there is no darkness'. This turns out to be a harshly lit interrogation cell, rather than a bright post-dictatorship future, where O'brien ruthlessly tortures and brainwashes Smith until he loves Big Brother and dies.

Orwell was a lifelong socialist who had the courage of his convictions; he fought in Spain for Republican Spain's popular front government in 1937 and was wounded there; he described the experience in Homage to Catalonia, including the persecution and murder of 'heretical' communists there (such members of the Trotskyite POUM ) by Stalin's agents. Returning to Britain, in the early 1940s Orwell wrote Animal Farm, an allegory in which the animals unite to overthrow their farmer, and found an animal's republic in which all are equal. However, the revolution degenerates when the pigs make themselves the new farm bosses, claiming that 'all animals are equal, but some animals are more equal than others'. This was a thinly-disguised parody of Stalinist Russia, then an ally in the war against Nazi Germany.

Orwell felt a deep hatred of Stalin's corrupt revolution and his next and final book was a stronger attack on Stalinist Russia and those countries, like China, which followed the Stalinist model. Orwell wrote it while he was dying of tuberculosis, and called it 1984, an inversion of the year it was written, 1948. The book is probably still the greatest anti-fascist, anti- totalitarian work of literature ever written in the English language. Concepts such as doubtlethink and newspeak were borrowed from it by political scientists. Thoughtcrime and memory hole also entered the language. Orwell died before the IT age, but he foresaw that dictators would use new technology both to spy on people and to spread propaganda and lies. Many features of the dystopia are still clearly recognisable in Communist China, in particular the constant re-writing of history, which is Winston Smith's job at the Ministry of Truth. When Oceania switches sides and declares war on Eurasia, all media references to the past must be rewritten, so that it appears that Oceania has always been at war with Eurasia.

In a recent example of this, Hu Jintao said on July 1st that the Communist Party was founded on this day 90 years ago, when in fact the Party was founded some time afterwards. Some people say that this does not matter, after all it is only a minor revision of history; other revisions such as the one after June 4th 1989 matter more. But Hu's attitude is typical of a party for which changing the past to build the future has become second nature. The CPC is also obsessed with use of language, which it refers to as tifa, especially when referring to the non-nation of Taiwan. Oceania, the Party-state inhabited by Winston Smith, is constantly at war, just as China can not drop it's belligerent attitude to Taiwan, the US and other countries. As Ai Weiwei once said, 'they need an enemy'.

Readers of 1984 today also recognise another feature of Chinese propaganda: statistics are constantly broadcast with positive stories about increasing production. Had he not died in 1949, Orwell would not have been surprised by the Great Leap Forward, when fake statistics of bumper crop yields were used to starve millions to death.


As for doublethink, it simply means the ability to hold contradictory beliefs. Psychologists today refer to it as cognitive dissonance. It is not hard to find examples of it in the arguments of the apologists of dictatorship, including foreign apologists such as Kuhn. In the 1930s, there were many in Europe who sympathised with Hitler and Mussolini. Hitler had built roads and Mussolini had made the trains run on time, they said. When the Oswald Mosley-led Fascist marched in London, Britain's popular Daily Mail celebrated them with a front page headline: Hoorah for the Blackshirts!

In the political desperation which accompanied the economic depression of the 1930s, many saw salvation in extremism. In Japan, militarism took hold, leading to the invasion of China and ultimately to the conquest of China by the CCP. China's present political system dates to the era of fascism, Nazism and Stalinism, remarkably unmodified.
Let us hope that children born today will not have to wait til 2084 to see a more democratic China, and that dictators everywhere can learn some new lines!
Kentish Town  A bus map with subversive stickers.
Gotcha  When Britain sunk the Argentine ship Belgrano in the Falklands war, there were complaints about the needless loss life of five hundred sailors. Critics pointed out that the ship was outside the 200 mile exclusion zone and heading in the opposite direction when attacked. Yet the Sun Newspaper rejoiced in the bloodshed with the famous headline Gotach! 30 years later, Private Eye got it's revenge this month with this front cover, as the Murdochs were compelled to close the gutter rag News of the World with the loss of 200 jobs. They were also dragged through a publicity storm regarding the hacking, improper political influence and paying the police for information by News of the World.
Lack Of Non Denominational Schools in Belsize Park  What option is there for parents who want there children to have a secular education in this part of london? Parents, many of whom are hardly religious themselves, have been fighting to get their children into religious schools lately, whether they be Catholic, Jewish,Islamic etc. Has this led to increasing religious intolerance and conflict in society?
A Korean Cyclist is Hunger Striking Outside Parliament Square  One year ago I visited Parliament Square in the last hours of the so called Democracy Village, a group of anti-war protesters and other protesters camped opposite the houses of Parliament. Yesterday I returned to see what has happened there in the meantime, and found that the square is still fenced off and out of bounds for the public. It seems the British state has not found a way to release the square for public use and has adopted a dog in a manger attitude. Along edge of the pavement, protesters are still camped on the pavement, just inches from the swirling traffic and constant exhausts fumes. It is in this harsh environment that veteran cyclist Okhwan Yoon has been staging his hunger strike for a month already. His aim is to attract attention to the plight of the 20 million North Koreans trapped for sixty years in what he describes as a prison camp, ie the Democratic People???s Republic of Korea.
Democracy Village One Year After  A year has passed the eviction of the anti war protesters. Time to look back on the dramatic events of those last hours.
The first shots show the square and the large statue of Churchill a few hours before the eviction, the daylight shots are from the morning after.
Chinese article, published in Trends Magazine, in Hong Kong. Democracy village
Goa Restaurant in London   As I'm planning a trip to the former Portuguese colony of Goa in India, I was intrigued by this restaurant, just off Tottenham Court Road. I wonder whether they speak Portuguese?

No Foreigners Allowed Beyond This Point

  A classic shot of the author from my year as a Chinese language student in 1984-5.Those days, the whole of China was technically off limits to foreigners, and you would find these signs on the edges of cities. The whole Fujian province was off-limits. We were told we were not allowed to go Tibet, but one we got chatting do we found the local Public Security Bureau more interested in our permit fees. I was twice made to leave places in North West China deemed too poor for a foreigner
Doubts About Chinese Statistics  I have often read about CPC officials fabricating statistics during the Great Leap Forward, and this FT article confirms the practice still goes on.
Meanwhie, what the Chinese are saying about the Murdoch scandal? According to this chat room, WenDi Deng, wife of Rupert Murdoch, is a spy.
Marine Drive at Dawn  On my first day in India, I stayed at the YWCA in downtown Mumbai. Too excited to stay in bed, I got up about 5am and headed down to the waterfront promenade known as Marine Drive, one of Mumbai's hallmarks. It was full of people jogging, strolling, or just sitting and watching the view of the "Queen's knecklace", as it is called; the bright lights which ring the bay.
After about half an hour, the lights went out the day had arrived!
Street Photography  
A Rainy Day in London  I was hanging around Aldgate Station waiting for a friend, after reading the book Street Photography, which features work by a dozen photographers. It inspired me to take some shots of pedestrians with my cellphone. I was impressed by the variety and colours of umbrellas. The British know how to enjoy rainy weather!
British Are Not Interested in China  A part of the top thirty best sellers (non fiction) in WH Smith at Heathrow Airport. There was not a single book on China. In the quality papers today there were no stories on China, apart from a few in the FT companies section. Why is this? Isn't the rise of China supposed to be a world-shaking event? So why no so little interest?
India Vs. China  This is my first post from Mumbai, India, where I arrived this morning. My timing was bad; three terrorist bombs have gone off in the city tonight, killing several, and spoiling my initial impression of the country.
My initial impression of India was much better than I expected. I have long been warned off India by people who told me tales of gastro-intestinal woes. I imagined Mumbai to be crawling with beggars, snarled with endless traffic jams, grindingly poor.
I arrived just after midnight, and booked a taxi to the YWCA at the airport. There was some rubbish in the streets, but they were not very dirty. There is an elevated flyover being constructed, but as it is not completed, we went the whole route on the ground.
The taxi seemed only and wasn't very comfortable, mainly because the ceiling was rather low, so that I could not see very well. It appeared to be a 1950s model, like most of the taxis in the city. But what it lacked in convenience it made up with antique style, and later on I found this applied to other aspects of life, such as the slightly run down colonial architecture.
The driver spoke little English, and I was slightly worried when he stopped the cab several times and left me setting there. I assumed that he had gone to ask for directions. The drive went on and on, but just when I was starting to worry that he was driving me to a remote place to rob and kill me, he stopped in front of the YWCA. The 350 bill, about five pounds, seemed very reasonable.
After checking in, I was shown to my room by a white suited gentleman who the reception rerered to as 'the boy'. This must be a colonial custom. In any case, this middle aged man politely explained things, most of which I have now forgotten, apart from the tea and coffee room service.
I would have thought the bed some what expensive, as it was in a room to be shared with three others, but since I was the only guest, it seemed fair value. With no aircon, I slept with the fan on.
Waking at five in the morning, I decided to catch the bright lights on Marine Drive before dawn, and caught a taxi there. The taxi driver asked for 200 rupees, about ten times the correct fare, but then dropped to 50, which seemed reasonable. It turned out to be a two minute ride to Marine Drive, which is a long, wide promenade on the sea front popular with joggers and strollers, even at that time of the morning.
I took a few photos but then it started to rain, and I decided to go back to the hotel to look for an umbrella. The clerk advised me of a shop which opened at nine, so I had a two hour wait.
In the meantime, I had breakfast at the Y, which was quite tasty and a mixture of east and west; oat meal porridge with milk, eggs and toast, accompanied by veggie samosas, coffee and tea.
I also had a look at the papers which were refreshingly free of government propaganda which I have got used to in China. One article which caught my eye was a comparison of several free web mail services; GMAIL came out with the best recommendations and I learned several new GMAIL features in the article. In China, the propaganda department does not allow any positive coverage of gmail at present.
The next few hours are already a blur in my memory as I got rather exhuasted walking around in the rain. Eventually I found an umbrella to purchase and paid 200 rupees, a bit more than I would have paid in China, but it seemed slightly better made than those ones. It was made in India. I think I would be happy to pay a bit more in general for things made in the free world, if it could encourage governments to behave in a more liberal way.
As I wandered around, I passed the Modern Art Museum several times, and eventually I found it open, and had a quick look. It was a bit disappointing, with somewhat derivative works on the whole. Probably the best aspect was the building itself, with seemingly endless staircases leading to a large circular hall under drum-like roof which echoed as I walked round.
After this I needed a rest, so I checked back into the Y, and slept for a couple of hours. When I woke, it was after three and the rain had finally stopped. I took a taxi to CST, the main railway station, expecting to feel inspired about visiting the rest of India. After wandering around and taking a few snaps, I was approached by a woman named Sandy, who offered to be my guide for the rest of the afternoon. She took me to a Jain Temple, a bookshop, the so called hanging gardens and other tourist sights. These were all interesting, and she herself was good to talk to. She seemed to be quite a feminist, and critical of the attitude of Indian men to girls. She said that they prefer to abort female fetuses to such an extent that the ratio of girls to boys is 900-1300. She said husbands beat their wives if they give birth to girls.
When I got back to the hotel, I had supper and asked the clerk where to go to enjoy the evening. Better stay in the hotel he advised, since there have been terrorist bombs going off in the city...
This news spoiled my impressions of Mumbai. Up until then I was surprised by how safe the city felt. Even so, I still have a positive impression of India than China. India is not so much poorer than China, and I would prefer to take my chances with the occasional terrorist bomb than live in daily fear of a dictatorial government.
Storm Under the Sun  This 2009 documentary by Peng Xiaolian and Louisa Wei tells the story of Mao's 1955 anti-Hu Feng campaign, when he attacked, persecuted and imprisoned a group of leftist writers who had written for the July 1 and Hope magazines in the 30s and 40s.Peng's father Peng Boshan was imprisoned until the Cultural Revolution, when he was beaten to death by Maoist "Rebel Faction" members.
In order to gain the allegiance of Chinese intellectuals before seizing power ,Mao Zedong praised the leading leftist intellectual Lu Xun in the 1930s. But after taking power, when Mao was locking up Lu Xun's friends and colleagues, Mao remarked that if Lu was not dead, he would have to either shut up or be thrown in jail as well.
Hu Feng inherited the leadership of the leftist intellectuals after Lu's death and was a fervent supporter of the Chinese Communist Party. But he was also a writer and unable to except that art should be totally subjugated to Mao's politics.
The director describes the campaign as the practice run for the Anti-Rightist and Cultural Revolution campaigns. She interviews the survivors and their children, who tell interesting and often moving stories. The son of one writer cries when he describes how, when his father was dying in prison during the Cultural Revolution, he felt unable to visit his father, for fear of retribution, or even to accept his father's personal belongings, when offered by the police. Another man describes how when he returned home after 20 years in prison did not recognise his mother; he complains that he received no compensation or backpay for the 25 years of lost employment, even though the Public Security officials who were reinstated after the Cultural Revolution were reimbursed.
Hu Feng could never believe that Mao had turned on him. He thought that Mao had been misled by others. Hu Feng and others wrote a long document to explain their views and presented it directly to the politburo. Mao had it published and used as evidence to incriminate the authors.
In order to gain the allegiance of Chinese intellectuals before seizing power, Mao Zedong praised the leading leftist intellectual Lu Xun in the 1930s. But after taking power, when Mao was locking up Lu Xun's friends and colleagues, Mao remarked that if Lu was not dead, would have to either shut up or be thrown in jail as well.
Hu Feng inherited the leadership of the leftist intellectuals after Lu's death and was a fervent supporter of the Chinese Communist Party. But he was also a writer and unable to except that art should be totally subjugated to Mao's politics.
The director describes the campaign as the practice run for the Anti-Rightist and Cultural Revolution campaigns. She interviews the survivors and their children, until interesting and often moving stories. The son of one writer cries when he describes how, when his father was dying in prison during the Cultural Revolution, he felt unable to visit his father, for fear of retribution, or even to accept his father's personal belongings, when offered by the police. Another man describes how he returned home after 20 years in prison did not recognise his mother; complains that he received no compensation or backpay for the 25 years of lost employment, even though the Public Security officials who were reinstated after the Cultural Revolution were reimbursed.
Hu Feng could never believe that Mao had turned on him. He thought that Mao had been misled by others. Hu Feng and others wrote a long document to explain their views and presented directly to the politburo. Mao had it published and used as evidence to incriminate the authors.
People Mountain People Sea  There is a famous Chinese expression; renshan, renhai; 人山人海 it means people mountain, people sea, or in other words; a lot of people! I remember when swimming in the lake at Dingshan new Shanghai in the 1980s being struck how people used to take inflated inner car ties in to the water. These days you can buy an inflatable rubber ring for just 10 yuan. But I couldn't help thinking, after the government spent 44 billion on the Olympic Games, and beat the United States in the gold-medal tally, many Chinese still don't know how to swim. Perhaps the money would have been better spent on encouraging sport at the grass roots. Which reminds me about the Chinese national soccer team which didn't get a single goal in its last World Cup appearance in 2002...
When I first went to China in the 1980s China had 300 million less people but it felt more crowded. The buses were so crowded then that you couldn't get off unless you started manoeuvring yourself three stops in advance. Housing is also far less overcrowded these days; after the recent housing boom the average floor space per Chinese citizen has doubled to over 30 m?! In those days long queues and shortages of everything were the norm. This scene at the beach the other day reminded me of those times. The water was literally so full it felt more like a swimming pool than the sea. A part of the beach was also cordoned off for use by boats, and speedboats aggressively circling this territory to stop swimmers encroaching which they nevertheless did.
. On birth control in China, it was only after I had talked to people who told me directly about forced late term abortions and I began to believe it...
Hong Kong Air Pollution Warning  In Hong Kong Mass Transit Railway stations, you can often see air pollution warnings like this one. On the other hand, in China the government tries not to publicise the subject. They even went to the extent of forcing the World Bank to censor a report which links lung cancer deaths with local air pollution statistics.some information does slip out; last December when the air pollution index in China touched 300, a local newspaper reported that the government was advising people to avoid going outdoors. The WHO maximum safe limit is 20.
The Happy March Towards Communism  On the July 1st 2011, the 90th celebratory day for othe anniversary of the founding of the Communist Party, the China daily published this articlea bout the history of the Chinese Communist Party.This illustration shows the general theme of article; I happy march through the decades, as though the history of the Communist Party was one of continuous progress rather than a series of abrupt U-turns. The tragic anti-rightist campaign is not mentioned, the Great Leap Forward and the Cultural Revolution are skipped over
Stick Bin Laden on the Back of Your Travel Card  I have read on the Internet about the popularity of Ossam Bin Laden in China, but yesterday I found a bit more anecdotal evidence; these copies of Chinese ID cards with Bin Ladens photo were being sold on the street. According to the vendor, idea is to peel off the sticky backing and stick it on the back of your travel card. Or, she said, stick it on the back of your cash point card. Either way, you will have the pleasure of imagining that you are a Chinese Bin Laden every time you swipe your card - and all for just 2 yuan.
Big Turnout for July 1 Protest March  There were 220,000 people in the Hong Kong July 1 handover anniversary protest. The main themes were for the chief executive of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region Donald Tsang to resign, for his cabinet to resign, for an end to monopolistic policies of the real estate developers, and for universal suffrage. The police tried to reduce the numbers by closing off roads and making people wait for hours in the hot sun. They stationed photographers all on the route, filming and photographing demonstrators in an exercise of surveillance and intimidation. I joined the march at Wanchai station and marched to the government headquarters. As far as I could see the demonstration was completely peaceful.
The Beginning of the Great Revival  The Beginning of the Great Revival: this is the English title of the Chinese Communist Party propaganda film currently making its rounds in cinemas in China and Hong Kong.
It's a movie which draws on the star appeal of Chinese mainland actors and uses modern storytelling techniques such as a subplot- Mao seen frolicking in the snow with his girlfriend.
One young student who had recently joined the Communist Party said that he was brought to tears by the scenes of demonstrators protesting. The irony is that of course today no one is allowed to protest against the Communist Party. The title of the film in Chinese is Jian Dang Wei Ye, which means "Building the Party: The Great Cause". The Apple newspaper, which today has called for a big demonstration to call for universal suffrage and against the Hong Kong government, has cleverly adapted this slogan on its front-page headline today: "Building Hong Kong: The Great Cause: everyone join the demonstration!
Every Body on the Streets to Demonstrate  The Hong Kong handover holiday annual pro-democracy July 1 demonstration has become the single biggest popular political event of the annual calendar.Hong Kong people still do not have the right to vote, 14 years after the return to China, even though this right is enshrined in the Basic Law which was written by the Chinese government. This has become a source of anger too many Hong Kong people who see that there aspirations are being continuously delayed by the Chinese Communist Party.
This is the front cover of the Oriental Daily newspaper, one of Hong Kong's most popular daily papers.
Hong Kong People Lose Faith in the Chinese Communist Party  A full-page article in the Oriental Daily today graphically illustrates the dramatic loss of confidence in the Chinese Communist Party, which has become increasingly conservative and aggressively repressive in the last few years.
Ironically, the Communist Party which is celebrating the 90th anniversary of its founding today was once a progressive force, seeking to reform and improve China, and make it a country which would be an equal to the other great powers. But 90 years on, the Communist Party has now become an obstacle to this transformation. It has become an interest group, holding onto its power at the expense of the majority of society. New Communist Party members join because they want to improve their career prospects, not because they want to serve the people or create a socialist state where the benefits of society are shared equally. In fact according to some statistics, China is now more unequal, with a greater disparity between the rich and the poor than it was before the communists took over.
Hong Kongs Annual July 1 Handover Anniversary Protest March Calls for Universal Suffrage  The theme for this year's demonstration is the call for universal suffrage which has been repeatedly delayed by the Chinese Communist Party
Building Hong Kong: The Great Cause: Everyone Join the Demonstration! Today the Apple newspaper calls everyone who wants Hong Kong residents to have the vote to join the demonstration today.
Building Hong Kong: The Great Cause is the Chinese title, and "The Beginning of the Great Revival": is the English title of the Chinese Communist Party propaganda film currently making its rounds in cinemas in China and Hong Kong.
I have written about the apathy of young people towards the film here It's a movie which draws on the star appeal of Chinese mainland actors and uses modern storytelling techniques such as a subplot- Mao seen frolicking in the snow with his girlfriend.
One young student who had recently joined the Communist Party said that he was brought to tears by the scenes of demonstrators protesting. The irony is that of course today no one is allowed to protest against the Communist Party. The title of the film in Chinese is Jian Dang Wei Ye, which means "Building the Party: The Great Cause". The Apple newspaper, which today has called for a big demonstration to call for universal suffrage and against the Hong Kong government, has cleverly adapted this slogan on its front-page headline today: "Building Hong Kong: The Great Cause: everyone join the demonstration!
It is this sort of media freedom which makes Hong Kong remain a source of hope for millions of Chinese who are trapped by their increasingly conservative, repressive government. Recently, massive media coverage from Hong Kong as well as events and activities organised by local artists contributed to pressure Beijing into allowing Ai Weiwei limited freedom again. Meanwhile, there is no mention of the big demonstration in today's South China Morning Post, the main English-language newspaper in Hong Kong. This reminds us that it's Hong Kong local people who care most about their human rights, not foreigners, as common as mouthpieces sometimes try to pretend.
A Must See for Anyone Who Wonder How Their Jeans Are Made So Cheap  

China Blue documentary


This is a must see for anyone who ever wondered why a pair of jeans costs at 10th of the price it used to 20 years ago. Like all the best documentaries, this one opens your eyes to areas of life that were previously unknown to you.
A fly on the wall in a Guangdong jeans factory, it follows the arrival of a fresh young country girl. Factory workers are taught to tell inspectors that they have all the legally required breaks but in fact they are required to work for overtime, sometimes over 24 hours at a stretch, and fined two days wages if they leave the factory to get a drink. They are only allowed to go to the toilet twice a shift. Their wages are frequently delayed and the first month's wages are often kept by the factory as a deposit. Girls are preferred because they are more docile. They shared dormitories with 12 in a room and are charged for electricity, hot water etc. Although often exhausted, sometimes they still have time for girlish dancing or writing diaries, moments which add poignancy to the film.
The factory workers know there is no point complaining to the Labour Bureau because the factory owner is a former policeman who can call off the inspectors with "a single phone call".
The factory owner makes just two mao profit per pair of jeans, but is happy with the 40,000 profit on a 200,000 consignment. The workers take home between 200 and 1000 yuan per month
The low wages suggest that the documentary was made a few years ago, but is unlikely much has changed. According to an inspector interviewed in the documentary, this was one of the better factories.
Apple Newspaper Front Page As Ai Weiwei Comes Home  

Ai Weiwei comes home
Beijing bows to international pressure

(Headlines) 80 days after he was effectively kidnapped by Chinese police, Beijing bowed to international pressure and allowed Ai to return home last night, on condition that he does not speak to reporters.
Naturally there was great celebration amongst supporters, but also concern that he has been forced to compromise. Somehow I doubt if this will be the end of the story.
Here are some details from the Apple coverage. The story only broke at 11pm last night, so expect more tomorrow.

Article 1: Ai Weiwei comes home
Beijing bows to international pressure
Article 2: Ai's mother I'm going to give him a big, big hug. She is preparing his favourite food. Ai's wife reports that, after being ignored by the police for three months, she was visited by three police asking her make a written list of demands for the higher up authorities!
Article 3: Beijing bows to international pressure
The Apple newspaper credited his release to international and domestic pressure, and took some of the credit for itself and other Hong Kong media which had given much more extensive coverage than Western language media. It noted the upcoming visit to Europe by Wen Jiabao where Ai's case was bound to be raised.It also analysed the release, claiming that it was the result of a power struggle at the highest levels of the Communist Party which was won by "the doves". As evidence it pointed to the fact that although Ai was arrested and detained without any regard for the law regulations, he was not abuse, beaten and forced to confess imprisoned as is common in Chinese prisons.
Pressure from Hong Kong media is effective.
Since his arrest in April, the Hong Kong media have protested in different ways and called for his release, by demonstrated outside the mainland liaison office, covered the city with graffiti, projected images of him onto the PLA headquarters in Hong Kong.
The pressure never ceased, the demonstrations continued for 18 weeks. Ai's case was brought up at the Tiananmen massacre remembrance.
In particular young people have been protesting in their own way, for example by spraying images of Ai all over Hong Kong, or by using projectors to project images of him onto the PLA barracks. The chairman of the Patriotic Alliance says he fears that Ai will be taken to another place and put under house arrest, and plans to make Ai one of the issues on the annual first of July Hong Kong handover demonstrations.
Meanwhile, Dongxiang editor Zhang Weiguo commented that Ai has to not been released, he has just been transferred from one prison to another.
Red China Blues by Jan Wong  This book from the mid-90s says what I've been trying to put into words for along time; growing up in the 1970s we were too willing to believe Maoist propaganda because we were against Western capitalism.
Jan Wong was a Montral Maoist who had a rubber stamp made and went around stamping pantyhose adverts with "this degrades women" in Montral. In 1972 she applied to the Chinese consulate to go and live in China and was accepted because she was a Canadian of Chinese origin.
Living in China she was at first enthusiastic about Chinese socialism and even denounced a Chinese citizen who enquired to her about the possibility of escaping to the US. Later on she became disillusioned. This is a great book and of course it was banned in China, which alone makes it essential reading,in my opinion.
At the end of the book she describes her experience in Beijing in 1989 when she witnessed the massacre and suppression of the democracy movement.
Young People Ignore Communist Party Propaganda  As the Chinese Communist Party gears up to celebrate the 90th anniversary of its founding, a documentary film is being heavily pushed at a cinema in Shenzhen and I suspect throughout the country. In the foyer of the cinema, a series of wall panels exhibit the history of the Communist Party, ignoring troubling details such as the Great Leap Forward and the great famine, the Cultural Revolution, the June 4 massacre and the ousting of General Secretary Zhao Ziyang. A group of young people walk through but show no interest in the wall panels, they stand with their backs to them.
In the photos Jiang Zemin, Deng Xiaoping and Mao Zedong are featured, while Zhao Ziyiang has been edited out of history. I suspect that the film will also rewrite history, and don't expect it to teach the truth, but I'm curious how the party will deal with the mistakes of Mao; after all even Deng Xiaoping said that Mao was 30 percent bad. I would be surprised if the film is as balanced as Deng was. And Deng was no moderate; the June 4 massacre was his decision and he was in charge of the anti-rightist campaign.

These days, most young people are not interested in communist propaganda; they prefer pop music and computer games just like youth in the west. The communist party has re-tuned its propaganda, dropping socialist rhetoric. It now concentrates on building up the west as a bogey man which will split and colonise China? This is believable to a lot of people. Only the strong leadership of the Communist Party can save China from becoming slaves of the west once again, so their argument goes
Why China is Not a Country Ruled by Law  

And why it is becoming less and less ruled by law.


In the Hong Kong press today, The South China Morning Post, The Apple Daily and the International Herald Tribune each had articles on various aspects of China's legal system
The International Herald Tribune published a story about a blogger who had mocked Bo Xilai, the party secretary of Chongqing. The blogger was taken away by police and sentenced to one year of re-education, and extrajudicial procedure.
While such punishments continue to be practised by the police without the supervision of the courts, how can China develop a legal system or claim to have developed a legal system?
Meanwhile in the South China Morning Post, an article by Ong Yew-kim sheds some light on the retreat from law by the Communists over the last few years. Apparently in 2008, Wang Shengjun (王胜君) new president of China's Supreme Court was appointed,and this man has no legal training. This in itself is unthinkable in a country which claims to be ruled by law. Worse still, has argued for sentencing to be responsive to public opinion, and that the courts first duty is to uphold the supremacy of the Communist Party
Meanwhile story not picked up by the Western media, but available in chinese here the journalist Qi Chonghuai who was sentenced to 4 years after revealing Communist Party corruption has had his sentence extended to 12 years a few weeks before his release. This kind of behaviour once again makes a mockery of the legal system.
Newspapers from May and June 1989  This is the Sing Tao Evening news from May 25, 1989, when the initial military attack on Beijing was halted by combined action of Beijing citizens
Sing Tao Evening News June 5 1989  This is the Singapore evening news from June 5, 1989, when the news finally became clear of the extent and barbarity of the massacre in Beijing.
Headlines

Communist army continues to drive into Beijing to carry out massacre.


Bank Run on Leftist Banks. Stock market falls 600 points.


Headlines from left to right: stock market terrified sell-off, Sharp fall this year of 600 points.
Violent resistance escalates in Beijing.
Enraged citizens throw Molotov cocktails.
Army fires again and kills citizens
Students Capture Armoured Vehicle
Soldier Hands out Submachine Gun
Victory Is Incomplete in "Blood-washed Tiananmen Square"
Massacre of Civilians May Increase
US representatives call for halt to military assistance
The whole world angrily denounces Chinese Communist violence.
Beijing television says order for repression made by Central Military Commission
Li Peng says disorder not yet resolved
Communists threatened to "wage war" on "counterrevolution" until the end
for more detailed image: images/64-newspapers/Sing-Island-Evening-Post-05-06-1989.jpg - 4 mb file, may open slowly.
New vocab: 左派银行挤提/Zuǒpi ynhng jǐt/Leftist bank run
暴力对抗升/级/Bol dukng shēngj/ Violent resistance escalation
冲锋枪Chōngfēngqiāng Submachine gun
The Program of June 4 Massacre Memorial in Hong Kong  this year the commemoration included messages from Wang Dan and Ding Zilin and the full texts were included in the programme as well as the words of the songs which was sung.
Hong Kongs Apple Newspaper Provides Maximum Coverage on June 4 Massacre Anniversary  the candles won't be snuffed out
Hong Kong's Apple newspaper provided 8.5 pages of detailed coverage, worried the South China morning Post published just one. Some Chinese people say that is only foreigners that are interested in commemorating June 4, but judging from the intensive news coverage in the Chinese press, it seems that Hong Kong at least in Hong Kong, Chinese people are far more interested. after all, Apple newspaper is a popular commercial paper and they know what their readers like to read
Candlelit Vigil of Hong Kong People Commemorates the 22nd Anniversary of the 1989 June 4 Massacre  Tonight was the 22nd anniversary of unforgettable the Tiananmen Massacre, and once again, Victoria Park was crammed full of people who came to listen to the speeches, ceremonies, songs and messages of support.
This year was the the first time that the event has been held since the death of the fine speaker and charismatic democratic leader Szeto Wah, who died of cancer earlier this year.even so, the organisers put on a moving event in which they symbolically passed the torch to the younger generation who are too young to remember the 1980s but understand and want to continue the fight against dictatorship and brutality.
The main slogans of the nights were reversed a verdict on June 4th and bring those responsible to justice, and continue the fight for democracy and human rights and overthrow the one-party dictatorship.
There was a moving speech recorded in Beijing by Ding Zilin, who this year was placed under house arrest and not allowed to visit the spot where her son was shot dead. Wang Dan also recorded a speech in Taiwan reminding us that the chronic corruption which triggered the 1989 democracy movement still exists and in fact has got worse.
Macau Democracy Wall  In the Lago do Senado, probably the busiest tourist attraction of Macau, a graphic display of images and text tells the story of the 1989 Beijing June 4 massacre which is unknown or forgotten to many mainlanders. This weekend was a public holiday and the number of mainland tourists large; the display advertised a candlelit vigil like the one in Hong Kong.
I have referred to it in the following photos as the Macau democracy Wall
Books That People in China Are Allowed to Read  A display at the Shenzhen Book City (深圳书城)of books which have not been censored. Works by successful business people such as Li Kahsing and Steve Jobs seem to be most popular.
when I first lived in China in 1984 to 1985, people used to queue up outside bookshops to get their hands on the latest Western classics translated into Chinese. Friends of mine used to read Sartre and Bertrand Russell; they knew more about Western philosophy then I do.
But that era passed away when the country started on the current "dash for cash"
>Below is a collection of miscellaneous photos taken recently on my cellphone in Hong Kong and Shenzhen; including a funny Chinglish signs ( Please leave the country by lift)
The Love in the Hearts of the Tiananmen Mothers  A story in Hong Kong's Apple newspaper about the mothers of the victims of the June 4, 1989 massacre. The coverage has been subdued this year, since the death of the charismatic leader of the patriotic Alliance for democracy Setzo Wah who led the commemorations of the June 4 massacre for 21 years until his death last year.
Setzo seems to have been a genuinely popular politician here in Hong Kong.
Shanghai Health System Celebrates the 90th Anniversary of the Founding of the Communist Party  The Communist Party of China has recently been gearing up to celebrate its foundation. This propaganda poster photographed in Shanghai earlier this year is published by the Shanghai Municipal Medical Union. It announces a number of activities to celebrate the 90th anniversary of the founding of the Chinese Communist Party:

Find our red roots : Model Workers Volunteer Clinic
Sing red songs in praise of the party: Red Song Competition.
Ode to red classics; poetry readings
Remember the red years; book and essay readings
Show us your Red photos; photography collection
Mong Kok Nathan Road Pedestrian Death Trap  According to a recent article in the South China Morning Post, there is a very high rate of fatal traffic accidents on Nathan Road, and this is one of the blackspots. Hundreds of pedestrians cross every few minutes to get to the shops on Sai Yeung Choi Street (西洋菜街) According to the newspaper report, a project to make the road safer has been quietly shelved, presumably to appease motorists, who are a powerful lobby in most cities including Hong Kong. below are some more pictures of fast moving traffic and pedestrians crossing Nathan Road at about 8 PM last Thursday evening
A Classic Chinglish Sign at Shenzhen China Border Crossing Which Means the Opposite of What It Says  NO U-TURNS
This sign is an example of classic Chinglish and why good translation matters: the sign actually means please turn around and go back, so not only is it a mis-translation of Chinese into English, it also says the opposite of what it should. How could this be? Well firstly, I should explain that the sign is on the arrivals floor on the China side of the Hong Kong China border crossing and there is no way out from China to Hong Kong from the arrivals floor, the flow of people is all one way, from Hong Kong to China, and the sign literally means "It Is Prohibited to Go against the Flow of People". Could we put it into more idiomatic English? How about
Stop! Turnaround! Go Back!
This would be more understandable, and of course is the opposite of "No U-turns". But in England we would probably simply write something like:
Travellers to Hong Kong please go to Level 2.
So the sign was confusing in the original Chinese. Finally, I have also seen it translated in other parts of the border crossing as "NO REFLUENCE", which presumably comes from a plumbing dictionary.
Chinas Best Actor Wenjiabao  Monday's South China morning Post reported that the Hong Kong book prize committee has shortlisted two books which have been banned on mainland China, including one called China's best actor (zhongguoyingdi wenjiabao/ 中国影帝温家宝)by Yu Jie (余杰).The other book is a memoir by AIDS activist Gao Yaojie.
Wen Jiabao's outspoken support for political reform including, including an independent media and freedom of speech has been notable in recent years especially in his interviews and speeches made overseas. Opinion has roughly divided into two camps; some see him as a genuine reformist attempting to push reform agenda in an overwhelmingly conservative politburo, while others believe that he is simply part of the commerce party propaganda machine, improving the parties image, while actually taking no concrete action to implement political reform.
This book falls into the latter category. I personally that while Wen may be stuck in the good cop bad cop role, his statements to help support reformists and moderates in the party and society. So I don't agree with the books premise, but even so I don't believe it should be banned; readers should be allowed to make up their own minds
Colourful Hong Kong  Hong Kong is a photographer's paradise with his nightlife, mountains, seascapes,and cosmopolitan culinary fair. Shots from a 2007 photo shoot for Abril,Brazil.
Tea Time  The spring tea harvest is in in Fujian, where they grow the famous tieguanyin (铁观音). in China, the degustation of tea is something akin to wine, with experts paying large sums for the best leaves, but unlike wine, tea is best drunk when it's just picked.
in Hangzhou, just outside the city of the tea terraces of Longjing, where the local farmers will sell you a cup of fresh tea for 10 yuan; in the autumn the hills bus with the sounds of insects which live in the tea trees.
Little Boat on Victoria Harbour Hong Kong  As the skyscrapers tower over the bay, this little boat gives scale to the scenery
The Fattest Child in China Comes to Hong Kong for Treatment and Keeps Eating  Hong Kong's Apple daily newspaper today featured a report about the most obese child in China who has come to Hong Kong for treatment. On the paper's website there is a fat kid video of his first day in Hong Kong.
Skype is Sold to Microsoft  Skype has been sold to Microsoft for $8.5 billion. For mainland China users, this may facilitate communication across the great firewall. Only recently, there were reports that Skype had been declared illegal by the Chinese government.at present however, users who download Skype in China are redirected to a version hosted by Tom.com, which filters Skype chat and saves records on servers in China.
Presumably to operate in mainland China, Microsoft will also have to provide this service to the Chinese authorities.
Overseas Propaganda  The nexus of money and power has always influenced the Western media, giving the lie to the idealised notion of an unbiased free fourth estate. Chomsky's work also systematically showed hypocrisy with his twin pairs of respected Western media. Rupert Murchoch dumps the BBC from his satellite to gain access to China's media market; this is not an isolated example. Recent studies have shown how overseas Chinese media have become silent on sensitive themes as their economic interests coincide more with mainland China. Here in Hong Kong, we can distinguish newspapers which are critical of China from those which have business interests on the mainland. In the case of Western China observers, we can see a long record of sympathising with Maoism and from "Was Mao really a Monster; the academic response to Jung Chang and Jon Halliday's Mao, the Untold Story " that many of them have still not forsaken Mao. I would like to interview some of these old Maoist sympathisers before they pass away. I have many family connections with this group of people which should facilitate such research. China also has sympathisers on the right wing of the political spectrum. Ronald Reagan famously remarked that the Russians are bad communists and the Chinese are good communists. Although censored by Mao, Edgar Snow's Red Star over China was widely influential for a generation. Henry Kissinger also famously fell in love with Zhou Enlai and began a lifelong infatuation with China. Earlier generations of western observers were impressed by Chinese culture and willing to suspend judgement of authoritarianism, whilst criticising Russian or German dictatorships stridently. Thus a bedrock of sympathy facilitated China's propagandad efforts. Michael Gove, the Minister of education in the United Kingdom recently commented that it was a Maoist, that he wanted to carry out a cultural revolution, and a long march. It seems impossible that he would have quoted Stalin or Hitler in such a way. Yet for many Chinese dissidents, Mao is the most evil of the 20th century's three great mass murdering dictators. I agree with him that self-censorship occurs in the case of China, because Western journalists have an internalised sensor that they are not even aware of which makes them support the status quo and their interest in it. I also believe that a huge media bubble has grown up surrounding China's so-called economic miracle and that many observers have an interest in maintaining this bubble. Western media do not seem to be fully aware of the propaganda nature of China's media and often repeat these new sources uncritically, even when more accurate information is available online. ( BBC). Borrowing and adapting George Soros' concept of reflexivity, it seems that the Western world has eagerly gobbled up the fantasy of the China's economic miracle, excepting at face value in this positive statistics coming from China's propaganda machinery because they want to. Shuzi chuguan, Guan Chushuzi. An alternative analysis of China's economic growth could point out that, as China has failed in its 60 years to keep pace with neighbouring countries, and in 100 years since the end of Manchu rule China has fallen further behind the Western world, that economic growth rates in this previous 100 years have been unspectacular, that despite overtaking Japan to become the world's second-largest economy, GDP per capita is still less than 1/10 of GDP in Japan, and so on. Yet China seems to be the curious exception to the rule that good news does not get in the papers. We are constantly bombarded with information about the Chinese economic miracle. It seems that this is an example of an intellectual bubble which has accompanied the bubblelike rise of China's export economy. I will not attempt to predict at what point this bubble will collapse, only that we should be aware of it, and try to keep a balanced view in the midst of so much hyperbole. Ever since China announced that its population had reached 1 billion, it's as though we have all become infatuated with the Coca-Cola dream of every Chinese citizen drinking a can of Coca-Cola and the fizzy pop has come to our heads. On the other hand, there is also great deal of negative reporting of China which the Communist Party seeks to counteract. Own goals in the propaganda match. As the Chinese government becomes increasingly assertive and indifferent to Western criticism, its actions have undermined its efforts to create soft power and woo foreign audiences. Opinion polls have shown that negative attitudes toward China are increasing. The arrest of avant-garde artist Ai Weiwei may be relevant to the vast majority of people in both Britain and the UK, but the impact on the British elite will be significant, as Ai Weiwei was arrested just as his major exhibit dominated Britain's most prominent modern art gallery. Recent rough tactics towards journalists have alienated previously sympathetic sections of the Western media. China's campaign against the noble committee is also created a lot of negative propaganda. Ultimately, China's leaders may be faced with a automatic choice between getting their voice heard and have been there behaviour excepted.
Hong Kong Media Sees Red  Recently the Chinese government announced that for the next three months, until the 90th anniversary of the founding of the Chinese Communist Party, there will be only "red " TV programmes broadcast.
As the government clamps down and China swings to the left, even the normally self censoring cautious Hong Kong media is starting to get concerned. In this edition of the normally self censorious Hong Kong Sun newspaper.
A Sea of Red , "Going Back to the Cultural Revolution" shouts the headline. There are pictures of Liu Shaoqi, Chinese Premier who was abused and tortured to death by Chairman Mao, pictures of people about to be executed for the crime of being a counterrevolutionary etc, and then there are interviews with a Hong Kong businessman who says that he feels uneasy with all the red propaganda, and he still hasn't had his land dispute resolved... The message seems to be, the Hong Kong business community will keep quiet about politics as long as you , lists don't go too far, but you are reaching our limit of endurance!
Books Banned by Chinas Communist Party  This is a 1973 film by Italian director Antionio, which was censored and banned by the Chinese Communist Party in the 1970s because it included images which were unflattering, such as the bare feats of China's top surgeons while conducting operation, or the endless nights all carts being pulled around Tiananmen Square.It also shows the lack of enthusiasm for Chinese participating in compulsory political debates.
A lot has been written recently about China's Communist party censorship of the Internet. You can test censorship in China by comparing the search results on Google and Baidu for Liu Xiaobo, who recently received the Nobel Peace Prize for his peaceful promotion of democratic reform here Notice that both Google and Baidu both give prominence to Communist party mouthpieces such as Xinhua. Try using it for a sensitive words search and the results are most obvious.
Meanwhile, more traditional methods of censorship such as banning books continue to be popular: below are a few of the best ones which are available in English translation
Shenzhen at the Speed of Light  Speed of light
These photos were taken with a fast shutter and a big aperture, leaning on street furniture in downtown Shenzhen.
A Thief Shouting Stop Thief.  On a Hong Kong street post, a picture of Ai Weiwei scowls the question: who's afraid of Ai Weiwei
Certainly not the pottery workers of JingdeZhen. Ai weiwei's Sunflower seeds, on exhibition at the Tate Modern in London revitalized the employment market in the former capital of china - that is, the place where porcelain production was concentrated in Qing dynasty China. He created jobs for over 1600 people, keeping alive traditional techniques, by producing 100 million individual hand painted sunflower seeds. The seeds form a large field with a crunchy texture when walked on. Also, Mao was once worshipped as the Sun god of China, and his people were represented in socialist art as sun flower seeds. Ai Weiwei was disappeared in April 2011. 艾未未的葵花籽艺术展览搞活了景德镇的就业市场,因为他聘请了1,600多人以传统的手工方法生产1一个亿的葵花籽
While Ai Weiwei languishes in prison at great risk of being tortured, his name has become another sensitive term, filtered out by China's search engine baidu, deleted from blog posts and taboo in the media, except when it is instructed to denigrate him by the Propaganda Department.
Ai Xiaomin is one of the few who still has the courage to speak out: We can all be like Ai Weiwei
When I started learning Chinese 29 years ago, my teachers used books which were published and censored in China. These came with cassette tapes and we used dictionaries full of political slogans to look up words. Now there are ways to learn Chinese while getting a truer picture of what is going on. Here is a video I made about the useful google translate site which includes audio and pinyin.
A graphical viewof China's censorship
Pomelo County in the Spring  Pinghe county in Fujian province is famous for its pomelos. The locals make a good living with family income around 10,000. They also make wine from the pomelos. And grow tea
Wuhan Guangzhou Train  The new Guangzhou railway station from where high speed trains reach Wuhan in just three hours. But the station is in the remote suburbs and the ticket prices are high, so the trains are mostly empty. Recently the chief of the railway ministry was arrested for corruption and train speeds are being reduced to save money.
Ai Weiwei the Hot Topic in Hong Kong Media  

Who's afraid of Ai Weiwei?


Graffiti artist's protest of Ai Weiwei disappearance sparks police overeaction.
For the last few days, Ai Weiwei has been on the front cover of Hong Kong's Apple Newspaper every day. The Apple is the best selling newspaper in Hong Kong and is a popular paper, catering to mass tastes, but the protests of Hong Kong artists have also feature. Here is the mystery graffiti artist, over zealously pursued by the police, who has been spraying "Who's afraid of Ai Weiwei" in various popular places around Hong Kong.
Mickey Mouse City  Mickey Mouse in China
I am so happy that Shanghai will now have a Disneyland, the low mood which has troubled me for the last few weeks has all but gone. I used to think I was feeling low because I was worried that drinking Shanghai water and breathing Shanghai air might do something bad to me, but now I realise that actually what I really needed was another enormous theme park on my doorstep. I can't wait for it to open. I congratulate the great leaders of this metropolis on the wiseness of their decision. Of course, their are those who point out that China already has a Disneyland, which is losing money, but they will be proved wrong. I am sure that when the opening day comes, all the experience of the Shanghai Expo will be brought to bear and production targets for through put of bodies will be exceeded time and time again, as they were during the expo. I for one won't mind waiting for hours in queues for a glimpse of the world's highest Disneyland castle. I fully agree that the project will "strengthen Shanghai and contribute to turning the city into a world-class urban centre". In order to express my support for this goal I will now on will refer to Shanghai in my writings as the mickey-mouse city. I will also refer to it's government as the mickey mouse government. I will even refer to China as the mickey mouse country. And if I there are any contractual disputes, I am sure that they will be fairly resolved by the country's mickey mouse courts.I also congrulate the wise rulers on ridding us of that unmentionable bearded maverick, the self-proclaimed artist who creates art for western audiences that Chinese people can not understand. They, unlike him, understand that true western culture starts and ends with Mickey Mouse.
Famous Artist Silenced  Since a rather well known artist was disappeared by police on Sunday, there has been a lot of media interest. The general consensus is that this seems to be some kind of turning point, because if even a person with such a famous father and such a high level of international celebrity this mostly from arbitrary detention, no one is safe, and it is hard to imagine what the future will bring. The FT summarises it nicely: Ai-Weiweis-detention-suggests-the-bad-old-days-are-returning-in-China.html
There was a phone in program on the Ai Weiwei detention on rthk 3 in which someone said democracy is not possible when you have "too many people", without explaining what constitutes too many people.
Final Day of Trans Europe Footrace  A solitary wind battered figure, Chen Jinghui nears the finishing line of the Trans-Europe Footrace, after running 3.500 miles from Sicily, an average of 50 miles per day.
The Trans-Europe foot race is Europe's longest ultramarathon and is only held once every four years.
North Cape is Europe's most northerly point and enjoys the midnight sun for several weeks every year. The race ended on the summer solstice. More here
Memorial to the Victims of the Worst Man Made Disaster  As the name suggests, tombstone is a heavy book, both in subject matter and in sheer physical size. It's a labour of love, and a memorial to the author's parents, who both starved to death in Mao's great 1960s famine, as well as to the 36 million other victims.
The author has dug from the archives a wealth of detail about this tragic, man-made disaster, and it makes for depressing reading. Confiscating too much grain from farmers was bad enough, but did they have to be beaten to death for hiding grain? Did they have to be herded into concentration camps when they tried to escape? Did their letters have to be confiscated when they wrote pleading for help to their relatives? Did they have to be tracked down and punished when they told their friends about the famine?
After reading just a bit of this book, I became overwhelmed by a sadness and anger which I have only felt when reading about the Holocaust. How can human beings do this to each other? continued
Hong Kong Demo  A group of people going for a walk down the street in Hong Kong announce some views which would not be allowed on the other side of the border.
One says: without the CP, there is freedom
Beautiful Memories of Brazil  Ten years later
Some favourite shots from Brazil. Ten years ago I moved to Brazil, learned the language, bought a house and a business and spent five years getting to know the country.
Beautiful beaches, mountains, forests and waterfalls are among my best memories.
My brazil blog: articles on getting Brazilian citizenship, buying a business in Brazil, renting a house in Brazil, translating Brazilian music, navigating bureaucracy, getting into university, etc.
The Museum of the Person has an online collection of stories and I helped them translate some to English, including the life story of one of the last slaves- slavery was abolished in Brazil in 1880.
Fujian Earth Houses  A traditional style of house in Fujian.
These houses are built from earth and house whole communites for decades, if not centuries. A traditional feature of Fujian province, some of them are being bought up by entrepreneurs who redevelop them as tourist projects.
However things do not always work out as planned: the people in this house were cheated of their windows by a Shanghai company who replaced the valuable old wooden frames with cheap modern ones.
Walk Through the French Concession  Following the route laid out in this well-written guidebook, I spent an afternoon looking at old houses in the French concession. The photos are from numbers 1,2 and 3 on the walking trail pictured. The large hotel is now the Jinjiang Hotel, formerly the Cathay complex. Nixon stayed there during his famous 1970s visit to China.
The house with a fountain in front is now the home of the Chinese Writers Association. The third house, 666 Changle Road, reminds me of houses in Sao Paulo, Brazil, because of the position of the garage.
Shanghai Huihuang Riding Club  Horse riding has been making a comeback in China recently and has become another favourite hobby of the rich, along with golf, yachting, collecting art, wine and antiques. One of Shanghai's best-known riding clubs is the Huihuang Racing Course, near Luheng Road subway station in Minhang.
Here you will find there are several dozen horses, and a similar number of grooms and trainers. A one-hour lesson costs 280 yuan and there is a covered riding area for rainy weather as well as an outdoor track.
The trainers seem to go quite fast, providing an edutainment experience. My child was at all horse with a badly fitting saddle so that her feet did not reach the stirrups, but when I complained a properly fitting saddle was quickly found to replace it.
Marshall Residence  George Marshall stayed here in December 1945, when President Harry Truman sent him to China to broker a coalition government between the Nationalist allies under Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek and Communists under Mao Zedong. This mission failed and civil war followed.
The house, located at 160 Taiyuan Rd in the French Concession is a fine example of contemporary architecture and still inspires Shanghai's architects and designers. It is now a state-run guest house, and Chinese Government and Party members have priority, so rooms can not be booked in advance, but may be available.
Shanghai Airport Has a Great Collection of Chinglish  The Shanghai Magnetic Levitation train or Maglev for short is probably the world's fastest train, and has heralded a new age of high-speed rail construction in China. Unfortunately, it does not reach Shanghai city centre, and is therefore underused and losing money. This explains why there are only three trains per hour outside of peak hours and the last train leaves at 9PM. However I suspect that the costs of the project may be offset by the value of the technology transferred to China by its German inventors as a result. Unfortunately, there are doubts about the cost effectiveness of the network which charges high prices and is shunned by most train travellers. Apparently some of the construction has also been shoddy and will need to be redone. Recently the railways minister was fired for corruption. As well as being the world's fastest train, the train ride provides one of the best collections of Chinglish I have seen, and the airport at the end does just as well ( or badly ) so here's my English guide for Maglev/Pudong airport.
Chinglish English
Traffic Guide Transport Guide
Don't Follow Other Drivers Don't Take Illegal Taxis
Backhaul Return Trip
Leave Away the Glass Fences Don't Lean on the Barrier
Detention Charges Hire Charges
Special Reclamation Orifice Recyclable Waste Chute
To be continued
Surfing the Internet Behind the Great Fire Wall of China Tech Review: Using the Samsung Galaxy Android Phone in China   Using the Samsung Galaxy in China. This is a review of the Samsung Galaxy 1900 which I have been using for six months now. In China, a smart cellphone is a necessary accessory in business life, just like a good necktie, polished shoes and a nice briefcase. The Samsung Galaxy is stylishly thin with a very big screen, it costs as much as the iPhone 4 and it has one of the best cameras on the market, with a resolution of 1024 times 768, so it should both "give face" and be very useful. It also comes with the popular Google android operating system, which according to the Vodafone salesman who sold me the phone is faster than the Nokia Symbian system. Android is well integrated with Google's services such as YouTube and Gmail.continued...
Book Review: Was Mao Really a Monster  

Was Mao Really a Monster: the Academic Response to Chang and Halliday's Mao: the Unknown Story

Edited by Gregor Benton and Lin Chun. Routledge 2010.


This is a difficult and challenging book to review because it consists of 14 separate reviews of another long and complex autobiography of Mao.
Having read some but not all of these reviews, I will attempt to review the book by evaluating to what extent it answers the question: Was Mao really a monster?
Many of the reviews seem to be answering the question "Are the authors monsters? or are they serious researchers?", which is surely less important than evaluating the dent this book has made in Mao's reputation. The reviewers are united in criticism of the book for its numerous errors, but some reviewers, such as Arthur Waldrom, are more interested in questioning why Mao's reputation has never been savaged in this way and why he is still more acceptable than other 20th century mass murderers such as Hitler or Stalin.
I will now continue by examining the response of Delia Davin, who wrote the first review: "Dark Tales of Mao the Merciless". continued..
Shanghai Spring Real Estate Trade Fair  The Shanghai Spring Real Estate Trade Fair was held at the Shanghai Exhibition Centre at 1000 Yanan Middle Road.
The building housing the exhibition used to be the Sino-Soviet Friendship palace and the style is 1950s state socialist.
Inside, perhaps 50 real estate projects were publicising their wares. Most were middle range houses, with some villas costing 1,500,000,000. There was also an exhibition of overseas property including Australian, Korean, Spanish, US, Canadian and other new real estate. One advertisement claimed that the villa estate is just what English gentry enjoy and featured a photo of the royal yeomanry.
Including mock ups, brochures, videos and speaches, free buses were on hand to whisk prospective customers to see the houses.
One interesting villa is Boee Scenery Coast (???????) on Chongming Island. The maximum price is 1.5 million per unit.
People's Square  On a cold late winter morning in People's Square, people enjoy a scary ride.
It looks rather frightening and dangerous. Safety has been in the news recently after the Wenzhou train crash.
The centre of Shanghai, Peoples Square recently saw a demo inspired by recent events in north Africa. Police and journalists outnumbered demonstrators.
Suzhou Creek Side Cafe Life  A cafe on a creek in Suzhou. Nearby is the imperial canal which was the major national north-south transport route in imperial China.
Suzhou is half an hour from Shanghai on the high speed train service which leaves from Shanghai Station; the tickets cost about 40 yuan and seem to be valid all day, despite being sold for specific times. Suzhou has cleaner air than Shanghai and is a popular day tour destination.
Hongqiao Airport  Hongqiao airport is Shanghai's second airport. It is handles mostly domestic flights and is closer to the city centre. It has recently been enlarged and now has too terminals. It is connected to Shanghai's growing subway system, already the largest in the world.
Trains on line ten run until about ten and trains on line 2 run until 11:30
Logo  This is the heraldic shield of the luxury real estate development managed by my company, UPCS. Designed by Dahling Group, there are some French influences such as the steep Mansard roof and the dormer windows in the loft. The houses are grouped on artificial islands formed with water drawn from the lake and have about plots of about 3000 square metres including the built area, gardens and swimming pools. They range from 900 square metres to 1,800 square metres, with three stories, including huge basements. These contain wine cellars, indoor swimming pools, personal swimming pools, personal gyms, snooker rooms, etc, while the ground floor has a series of dining rooms, sitting rooms and two kitchens for Chinese and western cuisine, and the second floor has a number of large bedrooms with onsuite bathrooms.
Most of the houses have view of either the lake or the neighbouring golf course, and some of them have view of both.There may even be view of the nearby yatch club;
The estate management service will be provided by DTZ China. On it's website, DTZ describes itself as " a leading global real estate adviser with a worldwide presence of 140 cities in 42 countries. Our extended and dedicated team is in leading position in Greater China, serving clients from our 18 offices in the region ".


The houses are built with high quality material, including lots of imported double glazing. The exterior walls are imported sandstone. About half the first eight show houses will be offered for sale completely furnished. The landscaped gardens feature a number of mature trees and a mile long tree-lined avenue. 200 million has been spent on landscaping. The prices of the houses have not yet been fixed, but may start at around 40 million yuan and range up to 100 million or more. This assumes a price per square metre of about 40 thousand yuan, which is not high for luxury Shanghai housing. As early as 2001, a villa in Sheshan sold for 130 million. The launch date for the project has been provisionally fixed for May 28th, and adverts have already been placed in magazines including China Eastern and Dragon Air onboard publications.
The adverts suggests the manors are comparable with the Versaille Palace, and a dream worthy of "leaders".
Tricycle Being Towed  A truck removing a tricyle. China used be the land of the bike, and seemed to follow a model of sustainability but with the world's largest car market, bikes are being pushed off the roads to make room for cars.
Motorcycles have also been banned in many cities, on the grounds that they facilitate crime. But they are also much more affordable for citizens who can not afford a car, and take up much less road space.
Maos Hotel Room  This room is available for 1,970 yuan at the Ruijin hotel,Shanghai, although it can not be booked in advance, as it belongs to the Communist Party whose leaders have priority at all times. It was once slept in by Chairman Mao
Demo  
Porsche Display at Pudong Airport  The luxury goods market is growing, as China's economic growth without political reform concentrates wealth at the top. There are hundreds of millions living on two dollars per day, but onstentatious of displays of wealth are common place. BMW, Rolls Royce and Bentley are all doing well. Chinese consumers are pushing up the price of wine, and property prices are as high as Hong Kong, though average wages are much lower.
Hong Kong China Border  The city of Shenzhen and Hong Kong, separated by the Shenzhen River. On the left is the border fence, which keeps Hong Kong people from escaping to China - or perhaps it should be the other way around.
Shenzhen was a special economic zone which led the way in economic reform in the 1980s, but recently it has been somewhat left behind by faster development in Shanghai, Beijing and other places. But the city is expanding the Metro network and preparing to the 2012 University Games. Crossing the border is quick on the Hong Kong side where the immigration control is automated and queues are short; on the other side queues tend to build up, especially at weekends.
Building Shenzhen Metro  A uniformed security officer over looks a group of building workers at Buxin, site of one of Shenzhen's new underground train stations. Shenzhen led the nation in economic development in the 1980s but recently it's underground train network has lagged Shanghai's. There were only two lines in 2010, but this year line was has been extended to Shekou, Shenzhen's port. However the trains only run until 7:30pm.
Manoir Du Lac Sales Office in Spring  On a spring sunny day, I took a few new photos of the sales office, which came out better than before, as the rooms were better illuminated with natural light seeping in through the windows.
Trike Rider Reading Foreign News  A tricycle rider stops outside a news stand to read a copy of Reference News, a newspaper consisting of translations of foreign reports which are often revealing. The newspaper used to be restricted to certain government and party officials but is now available in news stands for 7 jiao.
Cheap and Cheerful Yunnan Food in Shanghai  I last visited Yunnan Province in the 1980s, but today I went to lunch in a cheap but pleasant Yunnan restaurant on Anfu Road in the Shanghai French Concession which serves a selection of dishes from the province. For 48 yuan, I chose from the set menu a kind of mashed potato, some fried cheese and a beef and peppers fried dish accompanied by hot lemongrass tea. Good value, quick service, pleasant atmosphere.
Huashan Hospital  People waiting at the Huashan hospital on Huashan Road in the French Concession, Shanghai. The tall glass views provided good views on this sunny day in early spring 2011.
It took a long time to be seen, partly because the doctor operates a dual queuing system: numbered tickets are issued to patients at reception, but the doctor keeps the used tickets, giving them out to patients who use them to jump the queue. These patients ask for them by barging into the consulting room, interrupting the doctors attendance to other patients.
Sightseeing in Shanghai  Like a weekend tourist, I spent Saturday and Sunday snapping Shanghai landmarks, like the International Finance Tower in Pudong, the lonely hearts corner and the funfair in People Square, Shanghai Fine Art Museum, the Shanghai Urban Planning Museum, the Jinjiang Hotel and some other colonial era buildings in the French concession. The lonely hearts corner was the most interesting because as I translated the advertisements out loud into English, I attracted a number of English speakers who corrected my translations and explains local marriage customs to me. The adverts almost all had the same feature set: the person's age, height, salary, real estate, educational history, but some of them added interesting details; one person claims to be from a household approved by the local neighbourhood committee while another emphasised owning several houses and having a degree from a famous university.
Chair with Devil Heads  This chair has interesting devil like heads, possibly representing Pan the Greek God of music, perhaps it was used in a music room. Recently it was purchased by a wealthy Chinese collector who asked me how much it was worth
Rainbow Warrior Visits Victoria Harbour Hong Kong  Last week the famous Greenpeace battle ship was on display to the public in Hong Kong's Victoria Harbour, and I hopped on board to take a look and chat to the crew members,who told me that the ship will be converted to a floating hospital in Bangladesh. Greenpeace has been fighting for the environment for over 20 years but the ship is now showing its age, it was built in the 1950s, so will now be retired. The exhibition raised awareness about the ongoing anti-nuclear fight in Hong Kong. I wrote my BA dissertation on the protests against the Daya Bay Nuclear Power Station in 1987. Recently there was a leak at the station, and the public were not alerted, even though it is downwind from Hong Kong.
Meetings of Associations of Homeowners   Today I went to two meetings of associations of homeowners who are unhappy with their property administration company services. These associations are in some ways the closest that Chinese citizens get to participating in a democratic process. According to Chinese law they are allowed to organise themselves and cancel a service company's contract and appoint a better company through a competitive tendering service. Today's bids were restricted to Shanghai companies, because the Shanghai housing administration bureau illegally refused to allow the bid by a non-Shanghai company, even though it belongs to a better category of company and promised a better service. The company originally planned to come to the meeting and make a fuss, but eventually backed out, fearing reprisals by Shanghai government.
Wed-23-February-2011  This is the Wukang Road sales office of Dianshan Lake Villas
Shanghai Street Scenes  A few days ago, the light had a special quality, and cast clear shadows on the pavements of the French Concession
Worker at Dianshanyihao   A workman holding a hammer. The cicular hole on the right will be a swimming pool
A Small Patch of Square  A different perspective on Hong Kong tall buildings
Winter Flowers  Winter is nearly over, and the lovely flowers blossoming all winter on the wall next door have started to wilt. Means spring must can not be far away.
Shanghai Old Furniture  In the office, last summer. Around me are various bit of furniture collected by the boss
Print Worker  Printing was a good business ten years ago but competition is cruel and many companies are being bought up. The game these days is to offer added services
London Black Cab Taxi, Kentish Town  Low shutter speed. wide aperture, blur gives a sense of motion.
Camden Loch  London's canals make great walking and cycle paths, although the still water cast an air of gloom especially in autumn. This one cuts across north London.
Dragon Head  At the famous floating restaurant in Aberdeen, Hong Kong. The jumbo has its own private ferry service. It serves Chinese food, including reasonably priced dim sum menu until 6pm.
A Factory Which Makes Xmas Cards  A factory which makes Xmas Cards
Deaf Round the World Biker  I met this Russian biker, who incidentally is deaf, and who has motorcyled across a large part of the world, at the entrance to the Star Ferry. I don't think they let him take his bike on.
The World's Largest Seatest Buddha  Best time to visit is early morning, as the buddha looks east and his gold paint lights up nicely in the early morning sun.
The Buddha is situated south of Lantau island, and Hong Kong Chep Lap Kok international airport is at the north end. The island is known for its world life, including its cows, which have been abandoned and rather wild.
The Worlds Longest Wall  Isolating walls have a new lease of life in China with the Great Fire Wall of China, a digital barrier to which the government expends huge amounts of labour and expense, probably to little avail, because it can be easily jumped. The original Great Wall was also jumped by, amongst others, the mongols. By the way, it is not true that the Great Wall is visible from the moon to the naked eye.
Year of the Pig  The last year of the Pig began in February 2007. Apparently some parents like the idea of giving birth to a piglet and planned their families accordingly. This porcine scene was in the Yu Garden, until the 1990s a collection of 18th century wooden housing which were pulled down to make way for a fake old style shops. In the middle a lake with an old tea house survives.
Windy Road in Tibet  Taken on the route from Mianyang to Jiuzhaigou
Century Park  The largest park in Shanghai, and a new one. It lies on the east side of the Huangpu river in Pudong.
Victoria Harbour Police Patrol  
Jade Buddha  Reclining Jade Buddha,at Jade Buddha Temple, Shanghai, taken on Money God Day. The Buddha was carved from a large lump of jade brought from Burma in the 19th century.
Kungfu  A personal trainer at Pure Gym called Monkey having a work out with punch bag
The Anhui Crocodile  just a few hours drive from Shanghai, Anhui: a world which time left behind. With its sleepy villages, cultural revolution relic architecutre, civil war battlefields, ancient history and relatively unspoilt countryside, it is more worth a visit than most people now. This is a clip from a piece I wrote the Best OF issue of Thats Shanghai.
A Big Chair on Hampstead Heath, London   A very large chair and table on Hampstead Heath
A Country Village on the Welsh Borders  A village on the borders
Riding a Horse in Bonito, Brazil  About visiting Bonito
Amazon River Beach  A beach on the River Negro or Amazonas at Manaus, in the centre of the Amazon rain forest. This was in 2005, before the current droughts began
Hampton Court  Stately home near London
The Manaus Opera House  The Manaus Opera House, built during the height of the rubber boom
Ruined Castle  A ruined castle in Wales
Hong-kong-old-waterfront  Digging through my hard disk I found this photo which from 2005 when the latest land reclamation was just getting underway.
Dragon Dance Man Smoking   This man walked off the boat with the dragon dancers last new year looking cool
Victoria Harbour from the Mid Levels  In Hong Kong, the extremely rich live on the Peak, the ordinarily rich live on the mid-levels. One compensation is the view of Victoria Habour
Sokuwan Ferry  At Sokuwan on the south end of Lamma Island, there are lots of sea food restaurants and a special ferry service to get there
Asias Lowest Glacier  I actually took this last March, but have only just uploaded it
Hong Kong Yacht at Sunset  The estate of villas I am selling is located between two yacht clubs but this yacht I snapped in Lamma Island, Hong Kong.
Shanghai Snowing  This morning when I woke up in Shanghai, the city was covered in a light blanket of snow. It has been snowing for the last couple of days, but it didn't settle on the ground until last night. Shanghai is a subtropical city with plenty of palm trees and they look incongruous covered in snow.
Snowy Shanghai  This is me in Dianshanhu Sales Centre garden in Shanghai in the winter
Wang the Woman  This is my old friend wang, who still has a good sense of humour, even though he is dying of stomach cancer.
Letter from Shanghai  This is me posting a letter to the UK
Shanghai Winter Air Pollution  After standing in my garden for half an hour in Shanghai this morning,my shoes were covered in a thick layer of dust.
Cold Weather in Shanghai  This is the thermometer which I bought when I thought the office was to hot a few weeks ago. Now the central heating has broken, its 4 degrees here
Mcdonalds Monopoly  McDonald's has a free version of the board game on its disposable tray mats and it promotes this gimmick on Hong Kong Mass transport railways.
Mansions  For the last few months, I've been working in a real estate office. These are the mansions which when finished in the spring will sell for 40 million yuan apiece.
Chateau-Lafite  Chateau Lafite is enjoying a boom in China recently, with this bottle on sale for 10,000 HK dollars. No one is sure who started the craze.
Shanghai Autumn  
Shanghai Tesco  Tesco is called l gu in China, and the name means 'happy shopping', but to me it sounds like l g?u which means happy dog. The shop is pretty different from the one in the UK; it caters mostly to local taste, although there some are a few imported speciality teas and biscuits.
Shanghai Wedding  Couples often go to parks in China to take their wedding photos. I snapped these in a Zhabei Park.
Old Shanghai Furniture  
Fishing in Hong Kong  Despite increasing pollution and reducing catches, it is still common to see people fishing in Hong Kong
Reprieve Campaign for Linda Carty  Linda Carty has not had a fair trial and will now be executed for a murder she probably did not commit. Reprieve have made of a mock up her cell behind Saint Martins in the Fields
Inside Linda Carty's Death Row Cell  
Close Up of Linda Carty's Death Row Cell  
The Atom Bomb Turns 65  Jeremy Corbyn MP talked about the eagerness of some Conservatives to spend billions on atomic weapons while cutting back on building schools
Corbin Speaks at Hiroshima Day Commemoration of 65 Years Since the First Atom Bomb  Jeremy Corbyn spoke about the continued need to renounce nuclear weapons and criticise the Conservative party member of Parliament who says we should strengthen our nuclear and military capability in order to strengthen our control over dwindling energy and natural resources
Former London Mayor Ken Livingston Speaks   Ken said that the bomb was perhaps the first attack of the cold war, rather than the last of the Second World War, against an already beaten Japan
Peace Head  Photographed on Hiroshima Day, August 6th 2010
Singing for Peace on Hiroshima Day 2010  
Hiroshima Memorial  
Raindrops Reflect Nelson's Column on a London Bus Window  I took this on the top floor of a number 24 bus passing through Trafalgar Square during an afternoon shower in early August. The bus route takes passengers past or near several famous London landmarks and I had took several shots through the rainy windows, focusing on the raindrops for an impressionist effect. When I got home and enlarged the photos, this one stuck out for the myriad reflections of Nelson's column in the raindrops
Churchill's-statue-overlooks-democracy-village-before-eviction  
Democracy Village in Parliament Square  The last night of the anti-war protest known as Democracy Village in Parliament Square, Westminster, London. This is one of the last photos, taking just two hours before the bailiffs moved in at 1 AM this morning.
Garden Apple  Grown in the back garden. We think of apples as quintessentially English, Americans think they are as American as apple pie, but apples were not grown in England until the Norman invasion in 1066, making them an early of example of fusion food.
Shanghai Expo Art  not far from Shanghai railway station, I saw some statues on the pavement, which made me think. What is this for? why solidify two young girls in short skirts and high heels into bronze statues? then I saw this group, and this was really scary, because their feet have been buried in concrete. For me the meaning represents incompetence, an absence of culture and a frightening lack personal freedom.
In Shanghai, Some People Are Too Short to Work As Waitors  People under 1.60 metres are not welcome in this job advert in Shanghai.
Stalin Lives on in Chinese Countryside  Stalin's portrait hangs outside a classroom in the Chinese countryside
Smelly Tofu  An article in today's Southern Metropolis warns of the dangers of street snacks, including my favourite, smelly tofu (臭豆腐). According to the article, in 2007, a number of factories were closed down in Shenzhen after it was discovered that they were manufacturing 1000 pounds of smelly tofu every day, using excrement to produce the characteristic smell.
Death of Zhu Houze  Zhu Houze's memorial service on the 11th of May was a rare and grand occasion with a style all of its own. The attendees lost no time in spreading the news from mouth to mouth, and everybody who should have been present turned up. Some described it as the largest meeting of democrats, including both system insiders and outsiders, in the 21 years since the June 4th massacre. Sadness at the departure of Zhu Houze mingled oddly with happiness as old friends renewed acquaintances, giving the occasion a special flavour. More importantly, they were saying goodbye to an era, to hopes which they had once held: Zhu Houze was a leading democratic thinker within the Chinese Communist Party; while Li Rui, Hu Zewei and others were also important democratic leaders within the Communist Party, Zhu's thinking on the existing system, on changing society, on China's future as well as on constitutional democracy within human civilisation was the most advanced. In an anti-intellectual, a reactionary one-party dictatorship, his theoretical training, strategic vision and maintenance of personal integrity despite the forces of the political whirlpool were beyond what most people can hope to achieve. He was considered to have combined the best qualities of both Hu Yaobang and Zhao Zeyang; he had Hu's selflessness, innovativeness and courage and Zhao's methodicalness and adaptability, so naturally he was seen as hope for the democratic faction within the Communist Party. Before he died, Hu Yaobang said: "I don't care about my on resignation, I just feel that I have let down two people, that's Zhu Houze and Bai Jinian. Because Zhu Houze is someone who could have been General Secretary." Zhu Houze and Hu Yaobang were very close; in a manuscript commemorating the 20th anniversary of the death of Hu Yaobang, Zhu Houze wrote: " Comrade Hu Yaobang always complied with Communist Party organisational discipline but in his later years, his ideas were always ahead of other people, he truly and sincerely strove for reform, and adopted every possible method and even compromise to promose a transition, you could say he really spared no efforts...Hu Yaobang was the last person who tried to attempt a breakthrough within the traditional system without turning his back on the rules." The same could be said of Zhu Houze himself. In the 20 years following the June 4 massacre, Zhu Houze and the ideas which he advocated were frozen; although Zhu Houze had already refocused his energy on to the (problems of) the lower levels of society, to constantly changing new technology and to the environment, the unstinting interest group in Zhongnanhai ( ie Chinas top leaders) complained that he was a nuisance and so he was hated, put under surveillance and prevented from travelling abroad; even after he died they insisted on covering his coffin with a Communist Party flag; Zhu Houze's whole spirit and body was unfailingly castigated and consumed by them. It's unfortunate that somebody so talented was shoved aside and those with far less ability took command. Zhu Houze once said, " I'm somebody who grew up with revolutionary work, practically my entire life has been spent in the struggle, but the cruellest struggle did not come from the KMT, it came from within the Communist Party. The Communist Party's struggle against its own members is the most harsh, Chinese people's struggle against Chinese people is the harshest". Shortly before his death he raised his grave doubts about the cruel struggle and sacrifice of human rights of the so-called " Chinese Model" and forecast that this would become a great controversy in the 21st-century. What made Zhu Houze different to others is that he had a very clear knowledge about himself and the Communist party's democratic faction and he warned " the survival of us old folks (meaning those inclined towards political reform) gives young people hope, but in fact there is no hope". He emphasised this saying: " There is no hope. The hope which you see is because you see us old folks are still alive so you have these fantasies. But we ourselves no longer have such fantasies." Some people describe this as Zhu's last political testament. With the departure of Zhu Houze, all hope for political reform in China and all hope of internal democratisation within the Communist party is irrevocably destroyed. Hope that this system can improve itself and can transform itself is completely destroyed. Hopes that people like Hu Yaobang, Zhao Zhiyang and Zhu Houze can turn the tide with their herculean efforts is also lost. This is not just the tragedy of Zhu Houze, it is the tragedy of China and the whole world which has been kidnapped by the Communist Party. It is not surprising that someone was heard to sigh at the hemorial service: "I I fear this is the last meeting of its kind".
Pomelo County 2010  Birds eggs in a nest found by a farmer in Pomelo country, Pinehe, Fujian. I spent a few days in Fujian with a family of farmers. The son and his wife look after their son make their living from repairing motocycles while the parents do the farm work. The house has three stories with broadband internet and satellite TV.
The News from China, May 1 to May 7, 2010.  Is Premier Wen Jiabao a dissident or a reformer?
Premier Wen Jiabao criticised the university authorities for selecting the audience and locking other students up on his visit to Beijing University to celebrate the 91st anniversary of the May Fourth Movement. He told the students to uphold the spirit of science and democracy of the Movement. RFA commentators differ in their analysis; some see in this Wen's counter-attack against critics of his advocacy of " universal values" (i.e. democracy, human rights, freedom of speech, independent judiciary) before he retires at the 18th plenum of the CCP in 2012. Others reject this analysis, claiming Wen is not a true democrat and pointing out that Wen has claimed his election was democratic. He knew that the audience would be preselected; if he doesn't like it, he could have refused to go.

Propaganda instructions to media leaked.
The International Federation of Journalists - www.ifj.org - have released copies of leaked instructions from China's Communist Party Central Propaganda Department. These include instructions to the media to restrict coverage of the recent spate of school and kindergarten mass murders, the real estate bubble, the visit of North Korea leader Kim, political trends in Taiwan and certain aspects of the Shanghai Expo.
ZWG These topics are all hot on the Internet, the Central Propaganda Department's attempt to restrict coverage is outdated and its ability to do so is weakening.

Censorship.
Two mainland China blogs have been blocked again; Kenengba and 1984BBC. (This may be because Kenengba recently published a survey of Great Fire Wall jumpers, their attitude to censorship and motives for jumping the GFW)
SD: This is like trying to block a leaky dam; sooner or later it will burst. China's netizens are fighting a guerilla war against the authorities. The policies are counter-productive.

Attempts to abolish anonymity for netizens.
Wang Chen, director of the Information Department revealed that they have been working to abolish anonymous comments on the websites for the past year and claims success, and that such efforts will continue. Wang says this is in order to stop harmful information from China's enemies entering China.
SD. This is counter-productive; if everyone has to reveal their real name before commenting online, netizens will do so; they cannot put everyone in prison. ZWG. This is a good example of " Chinese characteristics". The Internet in China is becoming a Local Area Network, which defeats the original purpose of the Internet. A lot of communist Party people are making money from the net, but the top leaders don't really understand it.

Shanghai Expo: complaints from Shanghai netizens.
In the construction of the Shanghai Expo, much accommodation has been torn down and residents driven out. In the run-up to the Expo, extraordinary security measures have been implemented and dissidents have been harassed.
SD. The Shanghai Expo is windowdressing for The Communist Party. Western countries are not interested in Expos anymore. The Communist party has spent so much money puffing itself up, pretending it is leading the world again. It has driven so many people from their homes, and now it has put them under surveillance and won't let locals talk to the media, so it's natural that they are unhappy.

Shanghai Kulongdi - new book describes blood and tears behind Shanghai glittering exterior. New York Times journalist Du Bin interviewed several Shanghai petitioners for this book some of whom haVE been imprisoned or died.
ZWG. The Shanghai Expo has pushed Shanghai's petitioners onto the international stage. Wu Yan, whose home was demolished, has petitioned the United Nations and held a press conference, and there have been demonstrations outside the Expo organisers headquarters in France by others who feel they have been victims of injustice. This has made clear the price which is paid by China's people when China's present system holds these events.

Attempts to strengthen security at China's schools.
Zhong Yongkang, Politburo standing committee member, has stressed the importance of taking immediate measures to strengthen security at China's schools because of five attacks in the last 40 days. SD. They talk a lot, but do little. The real problem is that China lacks freedom of speech, a real security system and fair legal procedures. This kind of thing has been going on for years; whenever there is a disaster it is always children who are the first victims, for example during the earthquakes when their schools collapsed. This shows how little the Chinese central and local government cares about children, even though it calls them the future of the nation.
from rfa
A Long March for a Missionary  Alfred Bosshardt was kidnapped and forced marched across China in appalling conditions by the Red Army in the 1930s, this article in China Now was based on an interview I did with him when
Fake Tiger Parts  Seems like I was fooled, those tiger feet on the street were fake! See them on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1op2GpHe7bc
State Secrets  From the Human Rights in China Report. The topic is censored in China
Google and Censorship  To understand how Google really feels, imagine that you had been helping your neighbour to cover up a murder which happened two decades ago, because, well, you feel it was a long time ago, you don't really understand the circumstances very well, maybe he is a reformed character, so why not give him the benefit of the doubt, after all, through your new business venture, you may be a positive influence on him to reform. But as time goes by, he keeps asking you to cover up more and more of what he has done, and you feel increasingly uncomfortable. Finally you discover that he has burgled your office, to steal private information entrusted to you by your clients. You know he intends to use this information to harass and persecute them. What do you do? Carry on as normal?
State Secrets Report by Human Rights in China  The State Secrets Law is used to suppress freedom of Speech in an absurd and arbitrary way. It make the law a laughing stock. This topic is censored in China
Bob Dylan Censored  The old 1960s rebel is still a dangerous political subversive by the ruling CCP, and his China tour has become another victim of censorship, according to today's South China Morning Post
Zhao Ziyang   The Apple News Paper reports a large number of people paying their respects to former premier Zhao Ziyang today. According to the report, the authorities sent in the police and are nervous.
The Law is the Last Thing Left to Defend  Lawyer Yu Jianrong, whose father was persecuted in the Cultural Revolution, sympathizes with striking workers and embattled farmers, but the authorities need his information, because they don't trust the information of local government. He has suggested that local law courts should become independent as a first step towards a fully independent legal system, democracy and freedom of expression
Setsu Wah Lives to Commemorate June 4th Tiananmen Massacre  Battling against cancer, veteran democratic activist Wah still hopes to join the commemorations of June 4th, starting this month, and climaxing with the candle vigil in Victoria Park on June 4th. Numbers will be boosted by young radicals and concern about growing political repression in Hong Kong and mainland China
Wang Dan and Cui Jian  Wang Dan listens to Cui Jian, the 1980s Rock icon who inspired and moved young people to hope for a better world, and bemoans the prematurely mature youth of today. Wang Dan's book is censored in China
Olympic Curse  Every country it goes, the Olympics seems to cast its cursed spell. In 2007, China saw a wave of repression that is still continuing, and justified showing a tidy house to the world and by the "threats" of separatists and rights activists. Nothing good happened to China's mass sports such as football which still can't field a decent team. 40 billion was spent, when 100 million still live in absolute poverty and education, health care and environment have been neglected. The Olympics is a trick by tyrannical governments to defraud and oppress their people with "patriotism"
Guilty of Saving Babies from Poisoning?  Zhao Lianhai, helped parents whose children got kidney stones from poisoned milk, was tried today. "You call him the accused, we call him a hero" said one of his supporters outside the courthouse, who were not allowed to observe the trial. Zhao got involved after his own son developed a two mm kidney stone. His group tried to help other parents get compensation from the government, which suppressed news of the poisoning. News of the trial is censored and the groups site has been blocked www.jieshibaobao.com. This from the Hong Kong Ming Pao
Deng on Reform  The purpose of political reform is to strengthen Party leadership.
Frank Ching's Google Nonsense  Frank Ching wrote some nonsense about google and censorship in yesterdays SCMP. People like him have no sense of moral outrage. Google helped the CCP to cover up for years, and in return, the CCP hacked Google's servers to steal information on rights activists, which will presumably be used to persecute these people. It's as if you lied to help your neighbour cover up a murder, and then you found he had burglarized your office, stolen files and was planning further crimes. I wrote to Frank, who has sent me this reply: Thank you for taking the time to write. I just came across something in the paper that might answer your question. I am therefore pasting it in here. I apologize for its length but I think it does suggest that the Internet is helping to reform China. Best, Frank Mainland media feisty despite Beijing's efforts Wang Xiangwei Updated on Mar 29, 2010 While the jury is still out on what really prompted Google's partial retreat from the mainland and its future uncertainties in a country with the world's biggest online population, nearly 400 million, one thing is certain. The company has thrown a global spotlight on the mainland's internet freedom - or lack of it. Gleeful human rights activists have wasted no time piling in, hoping the Google episode will draw international attention to what they see as increasingly harsh controls over media and a crackdown on political dissent, and put more pressure on the Chinese leadership. This is likely to reinforce views held by many outside China that the increasingly repressive mainland regime has kept the media tightly muzzled, internet chat rooms closely monitored, and dissenting voices silenced. But, as many overseas visitors discover after spending some time on the mainland, the reality can be different from what they read or watch about China in the international media. There is no doubt that the mainland leadership has tried to step up control of media and the internet and meted out more severe punishments on political dissidents in recent years. Editors who penned editorials challenging government policies have been punished, and dissident Liu Xiaobo was jailed for subversion after he co-authored "Charter 08", a petition that merely called for broad political and democratic reforms. Many activists who initially harboured high hopes of President Hu Jintao and Premier Wen Jiabao for political liberalisation in their early days of power have now turned their eyes to the next generation of leaders, who will take over in 2012. In addition to political dissent, the mainland's ominous and massive security and propaganda apparatus is also cracking down and censoring reports on ethnic minorities in Xinjiang or Tibet seen as advocating independence, Falun Gong, and those calling for a review of the June 4 Tiananmen crackdown. Speculation on the personal lives of the top mainland leaders has also been banned. But there are fewer areas that are off limits to mainland media and the public compared with even 10 years ago, and the scale and strength of control by the state is less effective than it looks. The mainland media, and particularly the internet, is as feisty, lively and aggressive on a wide range of issues as can be - contrary to the prevailing view outside China. Much has been written about China's Great Firewall and how its army of censors can effectively filter out or delete politically sensitive or pornographic materials, leaving the vast number of mainland internet users ill-informed or sexually starved. Well, as the Chinese proverb goes, while the priest climbs one foot, the devil climbs 10. Thanks to technological progress and the determination of internet users, there are many ways to circumvent the firewall and other controls. Overseas media reports and comments on China, particularly unfavourable ones, circulate quickly through chat rooms, blogs and e-mail, despite efforts by censors to delete or block them. The Chinese government launched a major drive to crack down on pornographic content on the internet last year. It claims to have succeeded, but hardcore porn is still available. In the past few weeks, two videos posted online have generated hundreds of thousands of hits every day - one showing a car show model called Shoushou having sex with her former boyfriend and another with footage of a young girl losing her virginity. Despite controls, citizen journalism is also flourishing. Internet posts have become a key source of news for both domestic and overseas media, exposing major corruption and pollution cases, social and legal injustices as well as government follies. For instance, a recent blog post led this newspaper to break the story about a Ministry of Education notice ordering mainland universities not to work with Oxfam, accusing the well-respected international charity of an ulterior motive without providing any proof. Senior mainland officials also acknowledge the benefit of the internet, with blog posts alerting them to wrongdoings by local officials who in the old days could easily have covered their tracks. Even in the traditional media of newspapers or television, over which officials can exercise better control, efforts to seek truth and stand up to powerful officials are also alive and well. The powerful propaganda officials may regularly call in chief editors and brief them on hot topics to cover or avoid, but enterprising reporters and editors are pushing the boundaries every day to report news that matters, even if it is embarrassing for authorities and puts their jobs on the line. On any given day, newspapers are not short of articles criticising government policies on property development or the household registration system, hukou. While directly criticising central government leaders is strictly forbidden, the number of officials being assailed in the press and on the internet is rising. Li Hongzhong , the governor of Hubei province and former party secretary of Shenzhen, found himself in hot water earlier this month after he scolded a Beijing reporter for asking him about a scandal at a press briefing open only to mainland journalists. Details of the episode were on the internet that day and commentaries appeared in several official newspapers, prompting open calls for his apology and resignation. This may not sound a big deal to those outside China, but it would have been unthinkable on the mainland even five years ago.
Akmal Shaikh is Not Forgotten  The Akmal Shaikh case seems to symbolise the bias against the defendant in China's legal system for Jerome Cohen, who links the case to the Rio Tinto. This time China has again disregarded a legal treaty, in this case one which entitles consular representatives to attend trials.
Internet in China  The arrival of the Internet has altered the dynamic between the CCP and the dissident community - Chase and Mulvenon, 2002
Party Elders Criticise Liu Xiaobo Verdict  Sometimes these Party elders step out of line and criticise the CCP. Apparently they were censored and even harassed afterwards. It is hard to dispute their argument that the verdict damaged the CCP's image though. This from Ming Pao
Dead Weight of Tradition  Early Western visitors to China remarked on the Chinese love of tradition and linked to a lack of developmental progress
Scary Graffiti  Under a bridge on Lamma - not sure what it means though
Year of the Tiger  Dragon dance dancing through Yung Shue Wan
Year of the Tiger  Dragon dance dancing through Yung Shue Wan
Chengdu  People looking at goldfish in a popular olde worlde style pedestrian street, with shops, restaurants, and a temple. Entrance to the street costs 20 yuan
Burning Incense in a Temple  Buddhism has made a comeback. People worship the money God amongst others
Burning Incense in a Temple  Buddhism has made a comeback. People worship the money God amongst others
Violence  These security guards were having a mock fight as I strolled by
Beggar  
Nun  
Lu Ding Bridge, Sichuan  Mao's Red Army fought for and won this bridge during their Long March, which was really a rout but became a victory in their propaganda
Attack on Leningrad  Aleksandry Buravsky describes how the story of seige and deliberate starvation of over one million people in Leningrad by the Nazis was censored and suppressed by Stalin because he did not like the city. This copy of the film was also censored for China, with several scenes of a policewoman rough kissing her boss removed.
Smoking  People don't seem to smoke as much as they used to, in China a lot of the new trains are non smoking now, although some people ignore the non smoking signs. But the government makes a lot of money from tobacco and smoking rates are still high, especially for men.
Imagine   Akmal was a dreamer, a mad man, who like John Lennon but without the talent, hoped to change the world with a song. Here is John Lennon's song: Imagine there's no heaven It's easy if you try No hell below us Above us only sky Imagine all the people Living for today... Imagine there's no countries It isn't hard to do Nothing to kill or die for And no religion too Imagine all the people Living life in peace... You may say I'm a dreamer But I'm not the only one I hope someday you'll join us And the world will be as one Imagine no possessions I wonder if you can No need for greed or hunger A brotherhood of man Imagine all the people Sharing all the world... You may say I'm a dreamer But I'm not the only one I hope someday you'll join us And the world will live as one Here is the SCMP piece on Shaiks madness
China's Trapped Transition  Pei Meixin explain's China's trap, and the prospect that China will experience long term stagnation. This quote from Deng explain's why China is willing to pay the price
Amber  Amber in front of her amber shop
Bridge over the River  A river runs through Yaan, in western Sichuan province, on the border with Tibet. The bridges have been lit up with decorative lights since a new mayor took over
The Cancer of CCP Corruption  "In comparison with other East Asian countries, the cancer of corruption embeds itself deeper into China's body politic". Huang Yanzhong, in "Is the Chinese State being revamped?", published in "China Under Hu Jintao, by Tun-jen Cheng, Jacques Delisle, Deborah Brown, 2006. In conversations with Chinese, many say that their CCP cadres are all corrupt, that cadres do not get anywhere by being corrupt. Others say that there are exceptional honest ones, and Zhu Rongji is sometimes given as an example.
Awesome New Guangzhou South Railway Station  China's fast new railways are excellent, if you can afford the high prices. Some in China are not happy with these high prices, and even describe the new trains as an example of guojinmintui, or "the country is advancing but the people are worse off". This is an example of content which was not censored: http://comment.news.163.com/news_shehui2_bbs/62F32FUA00011SM9.html ??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Guangzhou Railway Station Street Sleeper  Street Sleeper outside Guangzhou East Railway Station
Factory of the World  In the Great Leap Forward, the CCP said China would overtake the UK GDP in 15 years. It actually took 45 years, and was accompanied by a doubling of the population of China. The Great Leap, which included wasteful backyard furnaces, led to the starvation of 30 million. Much labour was diverted from the fields to chop trees and smelt iron, so that crops were left to rot in the fields, while CCP cadres lied about agricultural output, to keep leaders happy, and then confiscated what the farmers needed to survive. Here a worker carried a lump of red hot metal in a factory in a pipe factory in northern China
Factory of the World  Why do CCP cadres repeatedly report false figures to the centre? This article by Zhao Shiying explains that fabricating statistics is the way that CCP cadres advance up the Party career ladder. The saying in the title, guanchushuzi,shuzichuguan, sums it up nicely. Zhao's book is censored in China
Catholic Church in CHina  This Catholic Church in Moxi, west China, was opened in 1892, and closed during the Cultural Revolution, when worship was not allowed. It was opened again in 1982 and now has an active congregation.
Buddhist Temple  Superstition was not allowed after the CCP took power, but has made a comeback since the "opening up" process began. The CCP prefers Buddhism, because it is not seen as a foreign import with trojan horse tendencies. Buddhist monks have been seeing driving expensive cars, and there are concerns about the accountability of temples for the donations they receive.
Yaan Noodle Shop  The owner of the Ya'an noodle shop cooked for Jiang Zemin. After coming to power, Jiang, recognisable for his oversized spectacles and fixed grin, kept China's former Premier Zhao Ziyang under house arrest until his death in 2005, because Zhao refused to accept Deng Xiaoping's decision to take control of Beijing by massacring Beijing citizens. Zhao said he owed a duty to history and did not want to go down as a premier who massacred his citizens.
Marketing Dictatorship  Anne-Marie's study is the first book-length study of China's Propaganda system in recent years. But the system is big and she has not covered it completely; school education is not included for example. And propaganda is not the only way that Chinese chauvinism is spread, it is deeply embedded in the culture.
Luxury Goods  LV shop in Hong Kong. China's luxury goods market has boomed, fueled by the economic boom, corruption, and rampant consumerism and materialism. In the first 30 years of CCP rule, equality was an aim of governance, but then Deng Xiaoping abandoned egalitarianism and China has greater income inequality than Taiwan, Hong Kong, or China before the CCP took power in 1949.
Lamma Pier  
Yunnan Kids  Kids in Yunnan's stone forest, near Kunming.
Kids in Tibet  
Google, the CCP View Point  According to this newspaper, Google has been linked with the CIA in media attacks.
Yong Shu Wan Pier  The Yong Shu Wan pier at night
Oral History in China  My first publication, co-written with Yang Li-wen and my father Paul Thompson, who pioneered tape- recorded oral history research in Britain in the 1960s, and who visited China with me in 1985. At the time, we were rather lost in China and couldn't really track down much oral history, without really being aware of why. Even in the UK, oral history had a subversive nature, with the potential to subvert established historiography, and I wasn't yet aware of controlling role the Chinese Communist Party in rewriting and rewriting history for propaganda purposes, which explains why there was so little interesting writing available in the early 1980s. But things were loosening up and Chinese Lives: An Oral History of Contemporary China, translated by W.J.F.Jenner in 1984, seemed a significant break through. In fact, we were on the edge of a golden age of literature in the mid-1980s; after the end of political campaigns in 1983 people poured out their stories in "Wound Literature"; and many autobiographies were translated into English in the 1980s and 1990s. The country also experienced a reading boom as foreign literature was allowed in again; people queued up all night outside bookshops to buy the latest translations of western classics. These days China has become more prosaic; bookshops are full of books on how to beat the stock market. Also, with the explosion of blogging, people record there lives in new ways, and a lot of interesting stories survive despite censorship. But the process of traditional social research remains political and tendentious in China.
Tombstone by Yang Jishengis a fascinating and horrifyingly detailed history book unimaginable in the 1980s which has recently been published; it describes the 1950s Great Leap Forward disaster.
Modern Sculpture  Sculpture in the Wuhan Art Museum
Wuhan Museum  me in wuhan
Sichuan Countryside  Another view of the Sichuan countryside from the bus on the route to Chengdu from Luding
Old Boat on Victoria Harbour  These days, this kind of boat is used for for harbour tours
Monkey by Side of Road  Up in the mountains on the border with Tibet near Hailougou glacier, I saw this family of primates
Sedan Chair in Tibet  These porters offered to carry me up and down the mountain to see the Hailougou glacier. They told me it is safer, because they are specially selected, and no Tibetan porters are allowed to work here.
It seems that this site has been blocked in China because of this photo.
Long March Battle at Luding Bridge  According to CCP propaganda, the bridge in the background was the site of a heroic battle as Red Army soldiers swung along the chains into machine gun fire from Nationalists who had removed the planks. Recent research suggests the nationalists did not have any machine guns.
Dancing by the River in Ya'an  Every night, the locals dance on the river bed
Say No to China  It's time
Chinese History Text Book Issue  China often criticises the Japanese government for allowing the use of nationalistic history books in some schools. But China's history books also teach history in an unbalanced, partial and inaccurate way that deliberately fosters nationalism and revanchism
Ya an River Bank Tea Drinkers  
Dragon Proceeding Down Street  Taken on Yong Shu Wan main street, Lamma Island, Hong Kong
Blind Mountain  Deals with the subject of wife kidnapping, and purchasing in impoverished rural China. By Director Li Yang, who made the Blind Shaft, which was about mining accidents in north China.
The Impressions of Lord McCartney in China Through Western Eyes  The impressions of Lord McCartney, the first English ambassador to China, who the Chinese Empire received as a tribute bearer. This account of Macartney's 1793 mission to China suggests plus ??a change. More recently Susan Blum's book Lies that Bind looks at cultural mendacity in China and the West.
Blind Mountain Back Cover  Deals with the subject of wife kidnapping, and purchasing in impoverished rural China. By Director Li Yang, who made the Blind Shaft, which was about mining accidents in north China.
Tiger Year Tiger Talk  Tiger Year Tiger Talk Everywhere you go in China you can see attractive decorative displays of toy tigers, and apart from wishing everybody a happy year of the Tiger, we would also like to say we hope that in the New Year, China will become more amiable and more worthy of respect and not more detestable, terrifying and repulsive. Decorative tigers are cute and lovely, but a nation which is seen as a tiger is terrifying. Both for China and for the world, the stronger such a country becomes, the greater the disaster. The fascist regimes of the 20th century are an example of this: not only did they bring disaster to the world, but in the end they also destroyed themselves. After 30 years of reform and opening up, China is greatly changed, the economy has taken off and and quality of life is clearly improved and consequently the country has taken an important role on the international stage. This has been the dream of many Chinese for over a hundred years. But advanced Chinese people want more than this. The revolutionary pioneers represented by Sun Yatsen called for the Three People's Principles and even the Chinese Communist Party swears by and strives to realise this political principle. But has it been achieved to them date? No, it has not. Today, not only is democratic freedom an empty phrase, even the CCP's much loved and repeated mantra of "Rule by Law" actually just means that the Communist party uses the Law to rule the people, while the powerholders themselves are above the law. Despite signing international covenant on human rights, these have not been put into practice, and Chinese leaders have even made statements rejecting the universal values of democracy and freedom, rejected the tripartite division of powers and said that China is different. How can the Chinese leaders be so ignorant? It's shocking. China is on the road to modernisation, and is truly rising in the global village. But modernising and rising are all very well. If you don't have freedom and democracy you will not be allowed into the court room of human civilisation. No matter how many shiny tall buildings, fast rail ways, gleaming airports, advanced missile systems, what matters most is the state of your people. Are your people free, do they have dignity? can they think freely, express themselves freely, make free choices? Are people equal? the People's Republic has been in existence for 60 years, but the power of the Communist party was seized with violence from the hands of the Nationalist party. The Chinese people never authorised the Communist party to exercise power. In order to maintain the party dictatorship, this party keeps tight control of the military, and still uses the slogan "the Party's absolute leadership of the military". From the point of view of the Chinese people, it's the private army of the Communist party, which" takes orders from the party" - this was one of the slogans formed by people's bodies during the 60th anniversary celebrations in Tiananmen Square. This does not smack of modernity. Ever since the establishment of the People's Republic, the Commons party has monopolised society's resources, concentrated all power in its own hands, and its role has spread into every corner of society, so that the People's Republic has become a pyramid shaped machine. Because economic political and military power are highly concentrated in the party's hands and the party has never been authorised by the people and is not supervised by the people, and since the Party's power is concentrated in the hands of its leaders and the leadership is chosen by its predecessors, this kind of system inevitably creates a hotbed of dictatorship. Anybody who gets to the top of this pyramid can exercise absolute power; that's why Mao Zedong was able to launch the Cultural Revolution and why Deng Xiaoping was able to terminate political reform in the 1990s with his " four principles" speech As China rises, the Chinese Communist Party is starting to resemble a tiger. As internal repression increases, it is throwing its weight around internationally. Diplomacy Is the extension of the internal affairs, and war is the extension of politics, as the sayings go. It's inevitable that as the nation's power increases, it will put pressure on other countries. If it cannot achieve its ends peacefully war is inevitable. The Chinese Communist Party is inflaming nationalist fanaticism and only fascist regimes do this. Nationalistic fanaticism reached a peak in 2008, but in order to raise the temperature this high, the country invested a huge amount and which was really excessive. Last year, with the military parades celebrating 60th anniversary of the founding of the People's Republic, the Chinese Communist party showed its true face. All that advanced new military hardware was there only to show the world China's military prestige. What kind of message were they sending? It was the face of the tiger! We hope that our interpretation is wrong, and that our concerns are unnecessary! Happy Year of the Tiger!
Tiger Year Tiger Talk  Everywhere you go in China you can see attractive decorative displays of toy tigers, and apart from wishing everybody a happy year of the Tiger, we would also like to say we hope that in the New Year, China will become more amiable and more worthy of respect and not more detestable, terrifying and repulsive. Decorative tigers are cute and lovely, but a nation which is seen as a tiger is terrifying. Both for China and for the world, the stronger such a country becomes, the greater the disaster. The fascist regimes of the 20th century are an example of this: not only did they bring disaster to the world, but in the end they also destroyed themselves. After 30 years of reform and opening up, China is greatly changed, the economy has taken off and and quality of life is clearly improved and consequently the country has taken an important role on the international stage. This has been the dream of many Chinese for over a hundred years. But advanced Chinese people want more than this. The revolutionary pioneers represented by Sun Yatsen called for the Three People's Principles and even the Chinese Communist Party swears by and strives to realise this political principle. But has it been achieved to them date? No, it has not. Today, not only is democratic freedom an empty phrase, even the CCP's much loved and repeated mantra of "Rule by Law" actually just means that the Communist party uses the Law to rule the people, while the powerholders themselves are above the law. Despite signing international covenant on human rights, these have not been put into practice, and Chinese leaders have even made statements rejecting the universal values of democracy and freedom, rejected the tripartite division of powers and said that China is different. How can the Chinese leaders be so ignorant? It's shocking. China is on the road to modernisation, and is truly rising in the global village. But modernising and rising are all very well. If you don't have freedom and democracy you will not be allowed into the court room of human civilisation. No matter how many shiny tall buildings, fast rail ways, gleaming airports, advanced missile systems, what matters most is the state of your people. Are your people free, do they have dignity? can they think freely, express themselves freely, make free choices? Are people equal? the People's Republic has been in existence for 60 years, but the power of the Communist party was seized with violence from the hands of the Nationalist party. The Chinese people never authorised the Communist party to exercise power. In order to maintain the party dictatorship, this party keeps tight control of the military, and still uses the slogan "the Party's absolute leadership of the military". From the point of view of the Chinese people, it's the private army of the Communist party, which" takes orders from the party" - this was one of the slogans formed by people's bodies during the 60th anniversary celebrations in Tiananmen Square. This does not smack of modernity. Ever since the establishment of the People's Republic, the Commons party has monopolised society's resources, concentrated all power in its own hands, and its role has spread into every corner of society, so that the People's Republic has become a pyramid shaped machine. Because economic political and military power are highly concentrated in the party's hands and the party has never been authorised by the people and is not supervised by the people, and since the Party's power is concentrated in the hands of its leaders and the leadership is chosen by its predecessors, this kind of system inevitably creates a hotbed of dictatorship. Anybody who gets to the top of this pyramid can exercise absolute power; that's why Mao Zedong was able to launch the Cultural Revolution and why Deng Xiaoping was able to terminate political reform in the 1990s with his " four principles" speech As China rises, the Chinese Communist Party is starting to resemble a tiger. As internal repression increases, it is throwing its weight around internationa
Jiu ZhaiGou  Maybe the most beautiful scenic tourist destinations in China, these remote valleys are so full of tourists, you have to get up early to take photos.
Bruce Lee  The Great Kungfu Master
Runner  Running in Shanghai
Wine Taster  
Just Law by Helena Kennedy  This is a book everybody should read about how our freedoms are being stealthily stolen by Government
Just Law by Helena Kennedy  This is a book everybody should read about how our freedoms are being stealthily stolen by Government
Just Law by Helena Kennedy  This is a book everybody should read about how our freedoms are being stealthily stolen by Government
Just Law by Helena Kennedy  This is a book everybody should read about how our freedoms are being stealthily stolen by Government
Just Law by Helena Kennedy  This is a book everybody should read about how our freedoms are being stealthily stolen by Government
Just Law by Helena Kennedy  This is a book everybody should read about how our freedoms are being stealthily stolen by Government
Just Law by Helena Kennedy  This is a book everybody should read about how our freedoms are being stealthily stolen by Government
Just Law by Helena Kennedy  This is a book everybody should read about how our freedoms are being stealthily stolen by Government
Year of the Paper Tiger  Tiger in Harbin's Tiger Park, taken from inside a tour bus. Mao used to say that China's enemies are paper tigers
Old Supreme Court and Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank Buildings  The Old Supreme Court Building, the art Deco one behind is the old Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank head quarters, while the brighly lit building on the left is the new HSBC building.
More info on the HSBC building from wikipediaand on the Supreme Court from the HK govt
Yong Shu Wan  Taken from the beach at low tide
Silicon Valley of Death  So Google has had enough: http://online.wsj.com/article/SB126333757451026659.html Also, if you send "sexy" text message in China, your cell phone service will be automatically suspended. http://news.163.com/10/0113/10/5STDIET70001124J.html "Yea, though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil: For thou art with me;" http://www.rwf2000.com/2000/23pslm.htm
In the Papers: Google Says No to China  "This is not Google withdrawing from China, this is China withdrawing from the world!"
Star Ferry on Victoria Harbour  The Star ferry and view of Kowloon
In the SCMP  Hong Kong Chief Justice Andrew Li spoke of the need to maintain the independence of the judiciary in Hong Kong. This comes after recent "encouragement" from China for a more "co-operative" judiciary. Beijing recently praised the Macau judiciary for its co-operation. The Macau SAR also recently enacted China's new security law, which will allow increased surveillance there.
Candle Lit Vigil  A group of people gathered in Hong Kong yesterday in a vigil for Lu Xiaobo, imprisoned on December 25 for 11 years for peace expression of his political opinions
In the Papers  In the SCMP today, John Lee writes that the next generation of Chinese Leaders who take over in 2012 don't remember the mistakes of the Cultural Revolution and may be more bold in their policies. On the same page is an another article which describes the recent controversy over the high speed rail link. According to another article by John Lee, the number of absolutely poor in China has been increasing for the last ten years, and a underclass of 1 billion people exists beside the new prosperous middle class.
Macau   The famous Saint Paul Cathedral, which was burnt down in 1835. The ruins now consist of the southern stone fa?ade ?? intricately carved between 1620 and 1627 by Japanese Christians in exile from their homeland and local craftsmen under the direction of Italian Jesuit Carlo Spinola ?? and the crypts of the Jesuits who established and maintained the Cathedral. The fa?ade sits on a small hill, with 66 stone steps leading up to it. The carvings include Jesuit images with Oriental themes, such as a woman stepping on a seven-headed hydra, described by Chinese characters as ' Holy Mother tramples the heads of the dragon'. A few of the other carvings are the founders of the Jesuit Order, the conquest of Death by Jesus, and at the very top, a dove with wings outstretched. ( From Wikipedia)
Bird Friends  Another Brazilian friend is living on this island; the parrot Lulu, who lives with Caroline in Pak Kok.
The Opium Ward  How does one stop young people from following in the footsteps of drug users and peddlars? According to Chinese opinion, it is impossible; all British have "Pirate Genes" and "Smuggler Genes"
Long Live Chairman Mao  Workers of the world unite, hold high the glorious banner of Mao Tse Tung thought! You have nothing to lose but your chains! Cultural Revolution painting, at Macau Art Gallery
Sao Paulo Church  The Saint Paul Facade, seen from the old Fort
Big Gun  This is one of the cannon on Macau's historic old Fort
Red Guards  Chinese art followed the Soviet Union Socialist Realism style until the 1980s, with lots of healthy, happy model workers, students and peasants
Crack Down on the Mentally Ill.  In the China Daily, English Language mouthpiece of the Chinese state, the report of Akmal Shaikh's pending execution is published side by side with an article warning of a police crack down on the mentally ill.
Akmal Shaikh  When Akmal Shaikh was executed for drug smuggling, the high level of support in China was noted in the UK, and CCP media claimed high level of support in the UK too. In Hong Kong, Chinese language Apple newspaper was unusual in not linking the case to British Opium trade, and featured Shaikh's confused mental state and meglamaniac fantasy of stardom and world peace. The is from the Ming Pao
Imagine   Akmal was a dreamer, a mad man, who like John Lennon but without the talent, hoped to change the world with a song. Here is John Lennon's song: Imagine there's no heaven It's easy if you try No hell below us Above us only sky Imagine all the people Living for today... Imagine there's no countries It isn't hard to do Nothing to kill or die for And no religion too Imagine all the people Living life in peace... You may say I'm a dreamer But I'm not the only one I hope someday you'll join us And the world will be as one Imagine no possessions I wonder if you can No need for greed or hunger A brotherhood of man Imagine all the people Sharing all the world... You may say I'm a dreamer But I'm not the only one I hope someday you'll join us And the world will live as one
Hong Kong   Beneath the Christmas Tree
View from the Peak  Another view from near the Peak, showing the 88 story (lucky number) International Finance Center Building. Taken at the upper mid Levels on Hong Kong side, looking towards Kowloon over Victoria Harbour
Old Junk  A rare site is an old junk. These days, more likely a tourist stunt
Mother and Child on Star Ferry  We don't usually get such cold weather in November. Everyone is walking around in thick heavy coats, even though the temperature is only 15?C. They are not used to this kind of weather, especially at this kind of year.
88 Floor Hong Kong International Finance Centre  The tallest building in Hong Kong, it tours above the hirozon on Hong Kong island. 88 is a lucky number, because it sounds like fafa, or get rich, in Chinese
A Fine Grain  Wood Sculpture in Russell Square, London
London Jazz  An Old Negro Jazz Drummer led the band last night at the Vortex in Dalston
Shambaugh in China  Shambaugh gives an interview here in which he politely states his criticisms of the party-state, by prefacing them with a lot of praise. Interestingly the title of his book Atrophy and Adaption is mistranslated as jingjianheshiying - sounds nicer than weisuoheshiying??? - a case of censorship. cf http://www.cass.net.cn/show_news.asp?ID=245338
Blue October   A Muslim woman outside a blue lit pub in Kentish Town, London
International Finance Centre  88 Floors, Hong Kong's Highest Building
Red Taxi  Toyota Crowns provide HK's fleet
An Irreversible Injustice  No more Mr Nice Guy seems to be the New Year Message for 2010 from China. The decision to re-start executing foreigners, which must have been taken at the highest levels after much debate of the impact on foreign relations, has resulted in the first death - of an innocent Briton...read more
Trainers Hanging on the Telephone Wire  Walking down East Road, I notice these trainers hanging on the telephone wires. It was about 5 PM in the afternoon, at the end of August, a sunny day with blue sky and white clouds
Kickboxer  The Kick Boxing Personal Trainer at Pure Gym, International Finance Centre, Hong Kong
Tigers in the Snow  These are the Siberian Tigers in the Snow.This year, Chinese New Year will fall in mid-Febuary, in the same week as Carnival.
Very few Siberian tigers survive in the wild in China. This tiger lives in a game park in Harbin, north China
Unfortunately there are some people who thing that it is a good idea to kill Tiger's and sell their feet for 'medicine'. Some Chinese men believe tigers claws can give them an erection, as this vendor explains in this video
Father of the RAN  This is the webpage of my great grandfather,Vice Adml Sir William Cresell, at the Australian War Memorial, /www.awm.gov.au/people/152.asp Here is a picture of West Ham Park
Back in Blighty:   Today, at Stratford station, for the first time, I bought food in a supermarket, and checked it out myself.
Life in London  Life in London is comfortable, like these chairs. Today I got some legal advice by calling a help line I found out about at the Library. They told me I am not a landlord after all. Told "my tenant" to leave. Which he took badly, saying it would be "very dangerous" for me if I mentioned the subject of rent to him again. Went into town and found out they are now "giving away" laptops if you sign up for a mobile phone contract. Wrote a letter to my old Council to tell them they evicted me four years ago, so please stop chasing me for council tax. ( bailiffs letter through the door yesterday )
Jiu Zhaigou  At Huang Long, Tibet, the heavy calcium deposits on the lake bed
Refreshing   Lots of Juice. Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Reindeers Running  I had never seen Reindeer before and I did not expect these big animals to be so scared of me.
102 and Still Rocking My Hammock  Granny lived to 105. Here she is aged 102, enjoying a sunny afternoon in her hammock
International Finance Centre Shot from Lamma Island Ferry  Sea and sun sets: One of the nicest things about living in Hong Kong
Parati  Morning in Parati, Rio de Janeiro State, Brazil
Saint Pauls Cathedral 2  A close up of the cathedral from within the grounds
Arctic Summer  Inside the arctic circle in Finland, at the height of summer, the light has a special quality
The Closing Stages of the Trans-European Ultramarathon  At the most northerly point in Norway, where the sun shines 24 hours in midsummer, hardcore ultramarathonists flaunt their national colours on the closing stages of a gruelling 64 day, 4700 km road running race
The Closing Stages of the Trans-European Ultramarathon  Just hours away from the finishing line, the 30 runners to finish run bunched up in groups
The Closing Stages of the Trans-European Ultramarathon  The diminutive, wind beaten Chen Ching Hui, walking rather than running, on the last climb before North Cape Peninsula. No stranger to adventure, Chen immigrated legally to Brazil as a stowaway in the 1980s, and then made a fortune smuggling Chinese and Taiwanese manufactured goods between South American countries. He was awarded Brazilian passport in an amnesty
Race to the Top of the World  The longest ultramarathon on Earth ended at the Northern most point of Europe on the longest day of summer and I was there to greet the smuggler Chen Ching Hui, who was the first person from his country to run the race
Pink Bubbly  China Breast Cancer Foundation 'Pink' Mothers Day Fundrasing Brunch, sponsered by champagne company at Beijing Westin Hotel, with young female models in sparkling wine 'bubbles'
Xian Wall Guards  They guard the entrances to Xian's medieval City Wall. I caught them on camera marching to work. A lucky shot??? It was early one summer morning in 2009, and I was walking along the top of the wall, from where there are great views of the city. The wall is the largest and most complete in China, and has recently been rebuilt. It was previously knocked down by the Communist government, along with a lot of other valuable old architecture.
Residential Compound  Taken from the 22nd floor of the Champs Elysee Gardens apartment block on Minsheng Lu in Pudong, Shanghai
Stephen with Buscape Founder Mario Letelier  Accidental internet billionaire Mario Letelier was looking for the next big wave when he came for me to help him get into the China market. I explained about China using his native language of Portuguese, as his English was not so good at that time. I helped set up his company, and I even developed his website, infamy sports.com
Better Red Than Dead  In preparation for the Beijing Olympics, the city was sanitized, good time girls, tramps, dissidents and even street traders were all shunted off stage, leaving lots of policemen and neon lights to photograph.
When I lived in China, I could not read the news from home, because there were no foreign news papers on sale - even in places where lots of foreigners congregate, such as Shanghai's Xintiandi. Selling them was banned after 1989, except for in five star hotels. There were no foreign TV channels, as satellite TV was banned, and CNN was not available, except in hotels. The BBC's world service was jammed.
The BBC news.bbc.co.uk website was blocked, so I could not read the news from home. Although some news was available in English, there were so many broken links and the download speed was pretty slow, I soon got frustrated and gave up. I didn't trust the China Daily, because it was obviously biased. So I was in the dark about what was happening, and developed some opinions I later questioned. I used to go to Hong Kong sometimes and download mp3 podcasts from RFA, including the excellent weekly news round up zhongzuoyizhou
I could not read the news on Radio Free Asia. I did find some pirate DVD's of banned films, like Blind Shaft and Blind Mountain, which opened my eyes to what life is like for women and miners in poor rural China. And I found a book called Eventually I heard from an editor at a Russian News agency about TOR, and I was able to jump the Great Fire Wall, but the speed was so slow, I could only get a couple of pages for each mug of tea- I don't drink coffee. Then I found out about Freegate and Ultrasurf from Chinese friends, which were faster. Last summer, I spent a couple of weeks writing an article about China's sports sponsorship market, and commented that it would develop faster when the Government lets go of it's monopoly on the TV market. Business Forum, which were going to publish it, told me that it had been censored. Around that time they tried to introduce the Green Dam, a client-side approach to censorship, but there was so much opposition that they backed down, but kept coming up with new ways to make life more difficult.
They cracked Tor, freegate, and ultrasurf, which stopped working. Youtube was blocked, because of a tiny amount of "sensitive material which tells the truth about the murder of thousand of civilians by the government in 1989". Eventually I got tired of working for Chinese employers who consistently lied and cheated me, and moved to Hong Kong, where I can read the news in print and online. Now when I go to China, I have to install a VPN, which slows down my connection. It is a real pain in the arse. And censorship doesn't do any good for China either, it just slows down China's social, political, and economic development, which is bad for the whole world. Censorship and secrecy perverts every walk of life in China. At school they are taught a censored version of history, where China is the victim, which has never invaded another country, even though we all know it had attacked and invaded most of its neighbors over the years, and is in fact an empire with 2000 years of imperialist history. Of course they don't mention the 1989 murders, or Mao's famine, when 30 million starved, or the way they kept the country so tightly closed from 1949-1979 that when I lived there in 1984-5, it felt like going back in time 30 years.
These lies blind Chinese, encouraging a kind of narrow, ignorant, destructive, hypersensitive nationalism, so that they rush out to boycott Carrefour, just because someone "insulted" them in France, or demonstrate against Japan because of one biased Japanese text book, when all their text books are far more biased. Good for google. If the Chinese government was gradually becoming a more enlightened, if censorship was slowly dropping, then it would have been right to stay. But there comes a point when you have to say, enough is enough. Hacking google's servers to steal information was the last straw, like if you had helped your neighbor to cover up a murder, and then you found out he was burglarizing your office.
I admire Chinese culture, they are a hard-working, shrewd, secular, people, and it;s a shame their government is holding them back. I am sure China would be more prosperous if the CCP had never come to power. Just look at Taiwan, the KMT did a pretty good job there in the end, they even had land reform, like on the mainland, but without murdering hundreds of thousands of landlords. And Taiwan shows that democracy is possible in Asia.
When will all those intelligent, cultured, studious people behind the GFW have the chance to join the free world, and lead it towards a secular, free, democracy?
Youtube has changed my life, not just by letting me hear all my cheesy old favorite music again , but letting me hear the voices of Liu Xiaobo, Ding Zilin and others. Their courage has warmed my heart and inspired me, and made me understand them in a way I would never have from the printed word.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i50GRR84lYk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2QJGuPOMPvE (English subtitles)
Luckily I had a Chinese Studies degree and an interest in reading, otherwise I would have been even more ignorant.

I worry about all those foreigners in China who come home saying how nice and safe China is.
Head of Ice  Every year they carve ice statues in the freezing north city of Harbin
Huan Le Gu Amusement Park  Happy Valley, a theme park, has a stage which can be viewed from a swimming pool
Jumbo Floating Restaurant  The famous Jumbo floating restaurant is accessible by free ferry from Aberdeen, on the south side of Hong Kong island. The restaurant serves a selection of reasonably priced Dim Sum snacks as well as other more expensive " power banquets"
Luxury Homes at Harkin Mansions  Stephen Thompson worked as a 'Sales Consultant' at Harkin Mansions, a luxury apartment block financed by Harbin Pharmecutical and built overlooking the Song Hua River, in Harbin. read more in Business Forum and Shanghai Evening News
Tai China  Tai Chi practioners in People's Square, Shanghai
Bird Cages  Bird Cages, People's Square, winter 2007, Shanghai
Tai China  Tai Chi practioner in People's Square
World's Biggest Seated Buddha, Hong Kong  Coated in Gold Paint, it gleamingly catches the morning sun on Lantau Island
3 Wheels Good  Provincial Town, North East China, Winter 2007. The town was a short drive from Harbin, the provincial capital of Heilongjiang province. My companion asked the drivers to move the taxis into a line and stand outside by their cabs, but only two of them complied. It was at least 20 degree below zero.
The Great Wine of China  I was the China representative for the International Association for the Promotion of Wine Culture, for Great Wines and Private Cellar. We sold wine coolers in oak cabinets and I was responsible for wine training which I did with cultural emphasis; I played flamingo and showed pictures of Picassos etchings of bullfights during tastings of Riocha
Tate Gallery  In the foyer of the Tate Modern
Saint Pauls Cathedral  Saint Pauls Cathedral viewed from the Tate Modern Gallery
Brazil Autumn  Another fresh bright morning in Parati, Brazil's 18th century historic slave and gold trading port
Morning at the Jetty  Early morning by the pier in Paraty. There are lots of boats here you can rent by the hour
Copacobana Beach  Lone Jogger on Rio de Janeiros most famous beach, with the Sugar Loaf mountain in the background
Rainy Beach  Paulistas spend their summer holidays on the North Coast of Sao Paulo State, although it rains a lot in the summer.
Surfer Boy  After the summer rains on the Sao Paulo literal notre, New Year 2004, people come out to play. . Almost a good photo, according to Alex.
Pavements of Copacabana  The wide pavements of Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro, display the heritage of Portugal, with their characteristic Portugueseblack and white swirly pattern.
The Legacy of Slavery  Brazil was the last nation in the Western Hemisphere to abolish slavery,in 1888. The slave owners campaigned for compensation for their loss, while the slaves were abandoned. This legacy of injustice is one of the main reasons why Brazil is the most violent society in the world, according to the Brazilian Government. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slavery_in_Brazil>wikipedia.org/wiki/Slavery_in_Brazil, http://www.nowpublic.com/world/brazil-most-violent-11-countries
The Blue Cave, in the Chapada Diamantina, Bahia, Brazil  The Blue Cave, in the Chapada Diamantina, Bahia, Brazil. One of the most peaceful and beautiful places I have ever been too.
A Bar Called Devessa  A bar in Rio de Janeiro, shot on black-and-white 1600 ASA film
Acupuncture  Acupuncture
Saudades Do Brasil  Between Rio de Janeiro and S?o Paulo, the mountains drop precipitously from 5000 metres to the sea end of forest is filled with innumerable waterfalls,many with pools large enough to swim and dive in.
Reading the Newspapers, Rio De Janeiro Brazil  Away from the beach life in Rio de Janeiro carries on much as in any other city. Here, men enjoy the cool, early hours of the morning to read their newspapers. Topics include the latest corruption scandals involving elected politicians, the state of the water in Guanabara Bay, and the latest shootouts between drug traffickers and the police.
Football T-shirts  Here are many football T-shirts of Brazilian football teams on sale outside the stadium of Brazil's biggest football club, Corinthians, Sao Paulo
Pedra Branca  Sao Paulo does not have much natural scenery, but the view from this rock in the Serra Cantareira is impressive and popular with young lovers basking in the winter sun
Tibetan Monastery Destroyed by PLA Artillery  There used to be a whole city of Buddhist monks living up here in the hills. All a bit superstitious, and the China has built a railway in Tibet, but maybe Tibet would be even better if the People's Liberation Army had never "liberated" it. Maybe China would be even better if the PLA had not liberated it.
Tibetan Monks  
Tibet Child  A boy in the Potala palace
Official-limits  This was me in China in 1985. Most of the country was still closed. I was asked to leave certain places by the police more than once.
Mother Carrying Daughter in a Basket  I took this photo in 1985 on a long month-long journey around China by train with my mother and a friend. The most memorable places were in western China and Tibet. This photos was taken in Sichuan. Cheap plastic goods had not yet replaced traditional hand-woven baskets.
Big Buddha Feet  The Le Shan Buddha in Le Shan is the world's largest Buddha, carved out of the rock of a cliff overlooking world pool where many ships were sunk, it was supposed to give them good luck on this treacherous stretch
Boat  Crossing a lake, near Kunming, Yunnan, the passengers clothes colour reflected in the water
Fan Man  Chinese men get hot in the summer, and when they do, they take their fans out. What I like about this photo is the contrast between the macho expression and the elegant fan
High Jump  It has been a good sport year for Brazil. I just wish all Brazilians were good sports. Faster than you can say " we've paid off the debt, let's get in debt again" President Lula has signed up for two ruinously expensive corruption fuelling prestige projects.